Publié sur YouTube, le thème « Beau livre Voitures anciennes » exploré en vidéo

Publication sur le thème « Beau livre Voitures anciennes » par Des Fenêtres sur le Monde

Cette vidéo, partagée par Des Fenêtres sur le Monde sur YouTube ( ), traite du thème « Beau livre Voitures anciennes ».

Sur YouTube, on trouve des milliers de vidéos éducatives et informatives, parfaites pour approfondir les connaissances sur divers sujets.

À l’instant où nous avons visionné la vidéo (), elle comptait déjà plusieurs interactions cumulées. Le compteur de Likes indiquait: 6334.

Notez la durée de la vidéo (00:40:56s), le titre (#6 – Mécanique : restauration VW T3 Syncro 4×4), et les commentaires qui accompagnent le contenu de l’auteur :« Holà Amigos, nous c’est Joana & Éric !
Dans cette vidéo, parce qu’une belle carrosserie et un beau intérieur ne font pas tout, on s’occupe de la mécanique de notre nouveau van, un VW T3 Syncro (4×4) de 1988.
Cette étape a été une fois de plus vraiment intense.
Rénovation complète des trains avant et arrière, freinage, suspension, roulement, Silentbloc, sablage et peinture…
Toujours autant de temps, de travail et de sueur pour la suite de cette restauration mais c’est tellement satisfaisant !

Notre nouvelle maison sur roues prend forme avec le soutien technique de nos partenaires @Mecatechnic & PowerFlex.

Un nouveau van aménagé, un sacré projet, pour de nouvelles grandes aventures !

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ATTENTION : Bien que nous ayons accumulé beaucoup d’expérience, nous ne sommes pas des professionnels du monde automobile et ces vidéos n’ont pas vocation à être des tutoriels. Effectuer des travaux sur un véhicule comporte des risques si l’on a pas les connaissances, compétences et outils appropriés.
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Infos pratiques pour tout propriétaire d’anciennes :
↠ Le site sur lequel nous commandons nos pièces VW et outils spéciaux : https://www.mecatechnic.com/fr-FR/
↠ Le site de Powerflex : https://www.powerflex.co.uk
↠ Le site sur lequel nous commandons nos accessoires pour l’aménagement : https://www.roadloisirs.com/fr-FR/pieces-vehicules-loisir.htm

↠ Nos indispensables :

Extracteur de silentblocs :
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Extracteur de roulements :
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Pistolet de nettoyage du circuit de refroidissement :
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La clé à choc :
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Les embouts :
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Le compresseur de ressorts :
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Le cric :
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Les chandelles :
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La machine à nettoyer, le Tornador :
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et le produit qui va avec :
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Compresseur 100L :
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↠ L’ensemble du matériel que nous utilisons :
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La Carrosserie qui s’est occupée de la peinture de «Toaster », notre VW T2 et du Syncro :
↠ Carrosserie Aux Ouvriers Réunis – 155 Allée Belle-Vue, 06600 Antibes

A très vite sur les routes !
Joana & Eric

#vanlife #aménagement #vwt3syncro ».

Le player de la vidéo est situé juste en dessous

Quel coût pour un ouvrage sur les voitures de collection ?

Le montant à prévoir pour un livre sur les voitures anciennes change considérablement selon sa qualité et son édition :

• Livres Généralistes: Les livres d’introduction coûtent généralement entre 30 et 60 euros.
• Ouvrages Spécialisés et Beaux Livres: Attendez-vous à des prix de 80 à 200 euros pour les éditions illustrées.
• Livres de Collection et Éditions Limitées: Les ouvrages signés ou limités peuvent dépasser les 200 €, selon leur rareté.

Le Guide Idéal pour Tous les Passionnés

Choisir un livre sur les voitures anciennes peut être un vrai plaisir, que ce soit pour étoffer votre collection ou pour faire un cadeau significatif. Que votre préférence aille vers une rétrospective ou un livre spécialisé, il est important de prendre le temps d’explorer les diverses options afin de dénicher celui qui répondra le mieux à votre passion ou à celle du destinataire. Des livres bien réalisés, regorgeant d’histoires et d’images, sont des joyaux pour les fans d’automobiles anciennes et des souvenirs précieux à garder.

Pourquoi se tourner vers un livre sur les voitures d’époque?

Lesouvrages sur les voitures anciennesne sont pas simplement des sources d’information, mais aussi de véritablesobjets de collection. Certains livres offrent des photographies exclusives, des dessins techniques, et des essais qui ne peuvent être trouvés nulle part ailleurs. Posséder unlivre sur sa voiture favoriteou sur une période donnée devient alors unplaisirqui va au-delà de la simple lecture.

Dans notre ère numérique, il semble plus facile de trouver des informations sur lesvoitures anciennesen ligne. Cependant, leslivresdemeurent un choix essentiel pour les passionnés. Un livrebien illustréet documenté permet d’explorer l’histoire voiturede manière approfondie, offrant une qualité d’édition qui assure uneexpérience de lectureunique. Contrairement aux ressources en ligne, souventfragmentéesouincomplètes, les livres de collection offrent desanalyses approfondies, souvent rédigées par desspécialistesou des journalistes du secteur.

Les types de ouvrages sur les voitures anciennes : Rétrospectives ou spécialisations ?

Avant de décider d’unacquisition, il est essentiel de se familiariser avec les variétés d’ouvragesdisponibles. Que vous ayez des besoins précis ou que vous cherchiez uncadeaupour quelqu’un de spécial, il existe des types d’livres mieux adaptés.

Les livres axés sur une marque ou un modèle spécifique

Pour les amateurs d’automobiles anciennes qui sont passionnés par une marque ou un modèle en particulier, un livre dédié peut faire un excellent choix. Il existe des ouvrages qui analysent en détail des marques iconiques comme Ferrari, Bugatti, Harley-Davidson ou la célèbre Citroën 2CV. Cependant, ces livres comportent un certain risque pour un collectionneur averti : il est possible que la personne en ait déjà un exemplaire, ou que le ouvrage ne traite pas des aspects qui lui tiennent à cœur. Si le destinataire s’intéresse à une période ou à un type de véhicule plus général, une rétrospective pourrait être plus appropriée.

Les publications illustrées de qualité

Les magnifiques livres sur les voitures anciennes sont généralement disponibles en grand format et rencontrent un franc succès en raison de leur qualité visuelle. Émaillés de photos en haute définition et d’illustrations d’archives exceptionnelles, ces ouvrages se prêtent parfaitement à l’exposition et au feuilletage. Ce genre de publication est souvent prisé pour sa dimension esthétique tout autant que pour les informations qu’il renferme.

Les rétrospectives voitures sans spécialisation

Ces livres couvrent généralement de nombreuses décennies de l’histoire automobile, rassemblant des modèles de plusieurs marques, styles et époques. Ils sont riches en données et constituent un point de départ idéal pour les néophytes ou pour ceux qui souhaitent explorer l’histoire générale de l’automobile. Les rétrospectives bien présentées offrent une vue d’ensemble captivante et mettent en lumière les évolutions en matière de design, de technologie et de tendances. Ce type de livre est parfait commecadeau, car il convient à un large public sans se focaliser sur un aspect particulier.

Qu’est-ce qui rend certains livres si onéreux ?

Si vous souhaitez économiser, choisissez des livres d’occasion. Les sites comme Rakuten, eBay ou les librairies de seconde main sont de très bonnes ressources pour dénicher des ouvrages en bon état à des prix intéressants. Les forums de fans et les groupes de collectionneurs peuvent également offrir de bonnes opportunités.

Pourquoi les prix de certains livres peuvent-ils être si élevés ?

Les tarifs des livres de collection sur l’automobile peuvent paraître élevés en raison de leur qualité d’édition et de leur valeur intrinsèque. Les ouvrages en édition limitée, anciens ou signés sont recherchés pour leur rareté. En outre, les livres de luxe incluent fréquemment des photographies et des documents uniques, des reliures en cuir ou des étuis de protection, les rendant ainsi précieux aux yeux des collectionneurs.

Les voitures de collection, joyaux de l’histoire automobile, fascinent par leur design, leur technologie, et leur valeur culturelle. Beaucoup de passionnés cherchent à approfondir leurs connaissances en se tournant vers des livres, mais l’offre est vaste. Comment choisir le bon livre, que ce soit pour soi ou comme cadeau ? Ce guide vous assistera dans la découverte des différents types de livres, des points de vente et des gammes de prix.

Achat de livres spécialisés sur les voitures de collection

Trouver un livre adéquat dépend aussi des lieux d’achat. Voici quelques options pour découvrir des livres de qualité :

• Librairies Spécialisées et Salons de l’Automobile: Certaines librairies se consacrent exclusivement aux ouvrages sur l’automobile, offrant ainsi des ouvrages rares ou anciens. De plus, les salons dédiés aux voitures anciennes et les événements pour collectionneurs disposent souvent de stands où des ouvrages spécifiques peuvent être trouvés.
• Sites de Collection et Plateformes en Ligne: Des sites comme AbeBooks, eBay, Amazon ou Le Bon Coin mettent à disposition une large sélection de livres, y compris des éditions d’occasion. Pour dénicher des éditions rares, les sites spécialisés dans les livres d’occasion ou les catalogues de bibliophilie sont d’excellentes alternatives.
• Bourses aux Livres et Bibliothèques: Certaines bibliothèques offrent la possibilité d’emprunter des ouvrages rares, tandis que les bourses aux livres peuvent révéler des trésors à des prix intéressants.

Conseils pour choisir un bon livre

Sélectionner un ouvrage de qualité sur les voitures anciennes nécessite de prêter attention à quelques critères importants :

1. L’Expertise des Auteurs: Cherchez des ouvrages rédigés par des experts réputés, tels que des historiens de l’automobile ou des journalistes dédiés. Cela garantit des recherches approfondies et des informations dignes de confiance.
2. Les Illustrations et la Qualité d’Édition: Un ouvrage sur les voitures anciennes est d’autant plus précieux s’il contient de belles illustrations. Préférez les ouvrages avec de bonnes photos qui rendent hommage aux véhicules, à leurs lignes et à leur caractère. Une édition de qualité, avec une reliure robuste et du papier de premier choix, est synonyme de durabilité et de plaisir de lecture.
3. Les Avis et les Critiques: Avant d’acheter, il peut être judicieux de lire les avis des lecteurs et les critiques disponibles. Les passionnés d’automobile partagent souvent leurs retours en ligne, ce qui peut éclairer votre décision d’acquisition.

Une section FAQ exhaustive sur l’acquisition de livres consacrés aux voitures anciennes a été mise en placesur cette page. Chaque section vous orientera sur les critères essentiels à considérer.

Si vous souhaitez regarder la vidéo directement sur YouTube, cliquez sur ce lien :
la source: Cliquer ici

#Mécanique #restauration #Syncro #4×4

Retranscription des paroles de la vidéo: Holà Amigos! With the interior of the van finished, it’s time to take care of Kaktus’ mechanics! But first thing, before getting our hands dirty, we test the new wheels, just to see if they fit well. A priori no worries, they have been designed especially for T3/Vanagon by GoWesty… Well we admit, we also really want to see the new look it gives to the van, with good AllTerrain tires adapted to the beast. Needless to say, it changes everything! In addition, in the long term, with these rims, we can reattach the chrome hubcaps so that retains an original touch. Before removing the wheel again to attack by the rear right axle, we loosen the hub nut since we are going to change the bearings. Let’s go for the complete dismantling, we do things in order and we therefore attack by removing the entire braking system. The springs retaining the brake shoes are pretty rusty, that lets us think that we are going to have many surprises… Once the brake shoes and the springs are removed, the wheel cylinder is removed and it too needed to be changed… Removing the rubbers allows you to immediately see if there is a leak and here there is one, it will definitely have to change that. For the backing plate, we will see after sandblasting if it is recoverable, but the metal looks a little damaged in some places. As always, we will make sure to recover and restore as many original parts as possible! It’s time to remove the screws from the axles. Everything is so rusty that the impact wrench will be our best friend for weeks to come! On the wheel side, things are going pretty well. But on the box side, the troubles begin… We had sprayed WD40 the days before, but nothing to do. It must be said that hex screw heads are not the best and tend to screw up there. Even with an extractor, they don’t want to come out… Too bad we will cut and we will prefer star type screws for reassembly just to be quiet. It is now the turn of the bearing housing and the stub axle to be removed. Piece after piece, screw after screw, the rear axle falls. A first side that reveals itself and gives us a glimpse of the amount of work to be done on the rest. And the troubles continue when removing the trailing arm. Impossible with an impact wrench, so we do it the old-fashioned way with a tube to act as a lever arm and have more strength. But nothing helps… The screw seems completely seized in the Silentbloc and it is the rubber that takes the effort. We will have to take out the heavy artillery, but first, we check on the Mecatechnic site that the part exists and if it is available. Its good ! So saber saw cutting session! If it’s like that for each wheel, we might as well say that we haven’t finished… To remove the Silentblocs, we pierce the rubber to weaken it and tap on the axle. Sometimes it comes like that, but most often, it is with an extractor provided for this purpose that they have to be taken out. Appropriate tools are the key to working efficiently and safely. f you know what you are doing, equipping yourself as a restoration progresses is always more economical than going through a garage, and you also have the satisfaction of the work done. We now move on to the bearing housing. There are two inside. They are protected from dust and water by bearing seals which are removed first. We also remove the circlip. With the right pliers, it’s done quickly. And we open another blue box from Mécatechnic. Not the same, even if they look alike, this one contains the specific tools for extracting the bearings. Same principle as for Silentblocs, after having fitted the tool adapted to the size of the bearing, the large nut must be tightened with an impact wrench or by hand, and by screwing in, the tool extracts the bearing. This being done, the entire rear axle is completely dismantled and Joana takes over the renovation of the parts. « Baby Blue », the Tool Atelier sandblaster is back in service! Each element of the axle will be refurbished and therefore first sandblasted to remove all traces of rust as well as the old paint. Meanwhile, Eric continues to remove the last small elements that are in the wheel arch. Like the fuel filler pipe (which is at the rear on the Syncro), or the old cracked and rusty brake hose… The moment comes when there is nothing left to dismantle and when we have to find occupations… That’s perfect, there’s plenty to do! On Kaktus there is no risk of getting bored! The exhaust is good for scrap. During downtime, we will take care of the engine part. This will be our mechanical common thread. When we can’t move forward on the axles because they are being sanded or dried out, we end up in the back of the van. For the engine, we are very lucky, it has only 30,000 km and it is a standard Volkswagen exchange. That is to say, a completely new engine from the factory and not a repair. Most of the rubber hoses are cracked, some metal pipes are beginning to rust, the electrical part is oxidized,… In short, lots of little things that require a little love in addition to a good review. After 10 years at a standstill, we still took the compressions of the 4 cylinders and the oil pressure to judge a little more of its condition and the figures are correct. Inside, it’s like new, although it doesn’t look great on the outside. « Well, the importance of changing the fuel lines which go to the injectors which are here, on each side of course, is that if there is a leak, there is the exhaust pipe, I don’t know if we see it… yes, it is there… which passes just below. So if there is a drop of gasoline that falls on the exhaust, well it ignites directly… And it happens more often than you might think. very year, we always see one or two vans catching fire. So we really have to change, this long hose that goes to the the fuel rail… there, the return, and the two little ones that are there. And by the way, of course, the two seals on each injector. So that, of course on both sides. » After removing the fuel rails, you can easily remove the two nuts from the intake manifolds to change the cracked hoses. Now that we can see a little more clearly without all that in the middle, we take the opportunity to clean the engine by protecting all the openings of the removed elements. Not a drop of water or a grain of sand should pass through there! We take out the Tornador which turns out to work very well here too to spray a natural cleaning degreaser under pressure. A brush with a toothbrush in hard-to-reach places, then rinse, paying maximum attention to the electrical part and dry with compressed air. We end up rubbing here and there to clean everything we can. Just in time, Joana has just finished sanding the last elements of the right rear axle. It is so satisfying to see the result! Everything went through the sandblaster, even the screws. Now we can protect and paint. By the way, we also renovate the engine pipes and the fuel filler pipe. To do this well, we use a two-component epoxy paint. That is to say, a very resistant paint which is obtained by mixing a base,, here black, and a hardener. The result speaks for itself. It shines, everything is like new, ready to face at least thirty more years. While it dries, we put our heads back in the engine and tackle the cooling circuit. By the way, we will also make a small improvement on the side of the alternator. Here we removed the alternator. The idea is to reinforce the original fixing system. Who is caught only on the block, and which sometimes tends to break with vibrations. It happened to us on Popo. So there is this part there which comes to be fixed here And there’s this part there, which reinforces the whole original system. This means that the forces are distributed between the two nuts (bolts*) there, the two original nuts, and the two nuts below. And there’s no way for it to move, no way for it to break. We are safe on the road! Small improvement too, with this new aluminum part which replaces the original plastic one. And we change all the little tired cooling hoses. The big ones are all in good condition. Then we move on to the electrical part, with cleaning of the ground connectors which are often neglected and can cause breakdowns, as well as all the other small connectors and sockets in the engine compartment which are inspected, cleaned or changed if necessary. Before reassembling the rear axle, we redo the entire wheel arch. Impossible to do the job halfway, especially since it really needs it, even if there is no perforating rust. So we sandblast the underbody. The idea isn’t to expose the sheet everywhere, especially not! Originally the body has a very effective anti-corrosion treatment by cataphoresis. We therefore only insist on the areas with superficial rust that we will then treat and protect with a primer. For the rest, we just remove the old layer of anti-gravel that wants to leave and all the encrusted dirt. Finally, we spray anti-gravel to protect the wheel arch. What is anti-gravel? Simply put, it’s a fairly thick, gritty kind of paint designed to protect the chassis from road and elemental attacks. Ultimately, the entire underbody will be redone, part by part. While it dries, we start reassembling the engine components. And we don’t forget to redo the fuel rails! Here is all this beautiful, brand new world again, in reality… refurbished! You remember that we removed the Silentblocs,… well now, we have to put in brand new ones, and in polyurethane please! Kaktus spoils himself! But we’ll come back to that… So we take out one of the famous « blue boxes », the same one used to extract the Silentblocs also allows them to be put back super easily. We almost forgot the CV axle… come on, it’s high time you got out of there. New screws freshly received and here is the trailing arm in place again. Sounds silly, but it’s good to see. It’s the turn of the new bearings to go in their place. When you are not super equipped, there is a technique: put them in the freezer overnight. I know it sounds weird, but The metal shrinks a little and thus the installation is facilitated without forcing and risking damaging the bearing. To reinstall it, just tap on a socket of the diameter of the outer cage to insert it into its housing, making sure to be perfectly in line, otherwise the bearing would be deformed and good for the trash… Same thing on the other side, making sure not to forget to put back the front spacer, and finally the clip. Finally, we stuff well with suitable grease the bearing which requires it. Depending on the brand, they may or may not be waterproof. Basically, if the balls or rollers are visible, it means you need to put grease! And we finish with the new bearing seals. Same method as for bearings. From there, no more dust should come inside. It is all the more delicate as we work outdoors and the wind sometimes blows hard in the South! To avoid this, the stub axle is re-fitted and the hub is temporarily screwed back on. Now it’s the CV axle’s turn! Given the grease, which is very dry, it must be original… No need to change the entire CV axle, we will clean everything, check their condition and only change the CV joints if necessary. We are lucky this time, it comes out easily. To disassemble the CV joints, just turn the inner part and tadaaa! The balls are just slightly « clipped » into their cage. A good cleaning later, we can see more clearly. No marks, no trace of seizing on the seats or on the balls… This one can still do several tens of thousands of kilometers without worries! For reassembly, the operation is reversed, paying attention to the direction of all the elements and in particular to the small teeth of the inner star which must be opposite the large teeth of the outer body and vice versa. For the rest, we use a complete repair kit which includes: a tube of special grease, the famous star-head screws and a CV boot. Our advice, favor the best possible quality for CV joints. It is an essential element that receives a lot of effort! We finally reassemble the CV axle to the rest to facilitate the installation, it will prevent us from contorting ourselves under the van. And we always end up tightening everything by hand and torque with a torque wrench. We can now put the brakes back on. Nothing very complicated if we noted precisely how all the springs were assembled. We will just make sure to properly clean the brake shoes adjustment bar and put copper grease on it to prevent it from seizing. Once the whole system and the wheel have been reassembled, it is this small notched wheel that will be turned, passing through a hole provided in the flange, in order to be able to adjust the braking. The final touch, aviation hoses, the best! And one! Same operation on the other side, we skip the details but this side also gave us hard time! « You know you have to change them… » One less to cut! For the sandblasting of the underbody, this time we do it better and we equip ourselves accordingly! We finally move on to the front axles. Here, less risk, so we put the whole front on 4 candles to be able to work simultaneously on both sides. And there is a lot of work! All wearing parts are to be changed: Ball joints, Silentbloc, boots, brakes,… As soon as the first braking elements are removed, we realize that we will not be able to recover the calipers. The rust has literally welded the bleed screw and that of the brake fluid pipe. Impossible to remove them, too bad, we could have renovated them without that. We continue with seized screws… Decidedly, rust is really the worst thing in a restoration. « One syncro, two-wheel drive! » And yes, because the previous owner had removed he 4×4 system, so the front differencial and the CV axle at the front. He had only recovered this part of the CV axle, to be able to fix the wheel. But hey, we have a syncro! So we’re going to put it back in 4×4, and we’re going to remove all that. » At this stage we have understood, as soon as a screw resists, we no longer try to understand, we take out the grinder and we cut… To remove ball joint, a « ball joint puller » is used. The tool allows you to press on the axis of the latter as you tighten the screw and to remove it from its housing. The only thing to remember is to unscrew the nut but to leave it on the ball joint so that it doesn’t go off like a cannonball. Yes, mechanics can be dangerous… The axis being conical, when they are assembled they fit into their housing and they are sometimes hard to come out over time. Before disassembling the upper control arm, we make a small mark to locate the adjustment of this one. When you make a complete geometry, it is at this level that the camber adjustment is made: basically the inclination of the wheel in relation to the vertical. So even if it will be necessary to make a geometry after all that we have dismantled and changed, it is always good to identify the basic setting to be the most correct on reassembly. Same operation as at the rear, we dismantle all the Silentblocs, bearings and we sandblast all the parts before painting them. And there is a need… We also have to change part of the rigid brake pipes…  » All that for this ! Because there, it’s totally seized up, we can’t remove it! So we have to change the whole pipe and there we will cut to be able to recover the leg, sandblast it, redo it and the claw that is there. » We are lucky to be able to work in the garden of Eric’s parents, we are not complaining about it but we must admit that the conditions are not ideal for a restoration. Being on the ground, in the dust, contorting ourself is tiring after a while and the fatigue of the last few weeks is starting to be felt. So sometimes, we close our eyes and dream of a workshop with a hydraulic lift… There is still a lot of work to do and we are invited to the Volkswagen California Festival in Lacanau, in just a few days. We have to work harder despite the accumulated fatigue. During our architecture studies, we were told that in a week, there are seven days but also seven nights… So we take up the concept and we don’t give up! While it dries, we go back to our common thread, the engine. 10 years at a standstill, a good cleaning of the cooling circuit is essential. For this, we use a pneumatic tool that sends pressurized water into the circuit. It’s effective ! Given the color of the water coming out of the radiator, it did him good! New coolant and all we have to do is bleed it. We pass under the engine to finish with it and we mount protective plates for the casing tubes, certainly forgotten during the installation of the new engine in the 2000s. Then, it is up to the exhaust to find its place. It’s done for the engine! One day, we will remove it for sure, but for now no need to do more! At the front, we finished dismantling the last elements to be redone. The steering rack is also entitled to a complete overhaul: good lubrication, new ball joints, new boots, before being cleaned and repainted. Of course, we also change the steering shaft coupler which is cracked. On the van, there are two more to remember to do on the steering box, at the very front. Finally, we install the new Powerflex Silentblocs, yes, there are also some for that! A steering rack like new for a few tens of euros. After the deluge, our dear Kaktus has, not the wheels, but the candles under the water… Working outside is like life in a van. It also depends on the weather… Doesn’t it look like a space shuttle like that? One day you might fly, who knows?! But in the meantime, it’s the wheel arches that are waiting to be redone to finally finish the reassembly… Last pistol shot. There will remain the central part and the sills to be done next time. As we need a press for the removal and installation of the lower ball joints, we are going to say hello to our friend Robert in his little workshop where we always find everything we need! Robert, he knows a lot about it, it must be said that he has a lot of experience in old cars and rallies! A real living Automotive Technical Review! « So we take the lower ball joints off, they’re press-fitted. You have to go there with a press to take them out and the same to re-enter them, we will put them with the press. » And inevitably, as there is always a problem, they don’t want to go out. So we take out the torch to heat and expand the metal. Too bad for the paint, but we’ll put on a new coat. Eric : “Next thing to buy, a press. Okay ?! But the day we have a garage. » Joana : « With a lift. » Joana : « Cheers! » Eric : « It’s not me, it’s the press, haha » We take advantage of the press to facilitate our work on other elements as well. It’s great to have a workshop with everything at your fingertips! We tear off the rest of the bearing that had remained on the front hub, then install the new bearing in the spindle and be able to press the hub into it. Thank you Robert for the help, it’s always a pleasure to come tinker and chat! We return to the reassembly of the van, and we install all the new Silentblocs Powerflex in polyurethane. It’s been years since we installed them on Popo in America. They are a little more expensive than the original ones but they only have advantages: never need to change them again, they do not deteriorate over time like rubber and they are a little more rigid, you can feel it enormously on driving, road holding and on the steering which is much more precise and incisive, so it is only natural that Kaktus was also equipped with it. We have 48 hours left to be in Lacanau, 700 km from here! So we are doubling our efforts! Or to be correct, we triple them… it’s been a while since we are already on the doubles… We’ll finish in the night, luckily the neighbors are cool! The next day, we admire the result with the satisfaction of a job well done. We still have to adjust and bleed the brakes as well as the coolant, make a small parallelism quickly, until everything is in place. For the 4×4 Syncro system, we will do this at the same time as the preparation of Kaktus, especially since some elements are missing at the front. It’s good, we take our stuff and head to Lacanau. Next?! So it’s all the preparation of the van and the installation of accessories, the last straight line for Kaktus before setting off on an adventure! Are you getting on board? I don’t know how to dance the Macarena… .

Déroulement de la vidéo:

1.16 Holà Amigos!
1.16 With the interior of the van finished,
it&;s time to take care of
1.16 Kaktus&; mechanics!
1.16 But first thing, before getting our
hands dirty, we test the new
1.16 wheels, just to see if they fit well.
1.16 A priori no worries, they have been
designed especially for T3/Vanagon by GoWesty…
1.16 Well we admit, we also really want to see
the new look it gives to the van, with
1.16 good AllTerrain tires adapted to the beast.
1.16 Needless to say, it changes everything!
1.16 In addition, in the long term, with these
rims, we can reattach the chrome hubcaps so that
1.16 retains an original touch.
1.16 Before removing the wheel again to attack
by the rear right axle, we loosen the hub
1.16 nut since we are going to change the bearings.
1.16 Let&;s go for the complete dismantling,
we do things in order and we therefore attack
1.16 by removing the entire braking system.
1.16 The springs retaining the brake shoes
are pretty rusty, that lets us think
1.16 that we are going to have many surprises…
1.16 Once the brake shoes and the springs are removed,
the wheel cylinder is removed and it too
1.16 needed to be changed…
1.16 Removing the rubbers allows you to
immediately see if there is a leak and here
1.16 there is one, it will definitely have to change that.
1.16 For the backing plate, we will see after
sandblasting if it is recoverable, but the metal
1.16 looks a little damaged in some places.
1.16 As always, we will make sure to recover
and restore as many
1.16 original parts as possible!
1.16 It&;s time to remove the screws from the axles.
1.16 Everything is so rusty that the
impact wrench will be our best
1.16 friend for weeks to come!
1.16 On the wheel side, things are going pretty well.
1.16 But on the box side, the troubles begin…
1.16 We had sprayed WD40 the days before,
1.16 but nothing to do.
1.16 It must be said that hex screw heads
are not the best and tend
1.16 to screw up there.
1.16 Even with an extractor, they don&;t
want to come out…
1.16 Too bad we will cut and we will prefer
star type screws for reassembly
1.16 just to be quiet.
1.16 It is now the turn of the bearing
housing and the stub axle to be removed.
1.16 Piece after piece, screw after screw,
the rear axle falls.
1.16 A first side that reveals itself and
gives us a glimpse of the amount of
1.16 work to be done on the rest.
1.16 And the troubles continue when
removing the trailing arm.
1.16 Impossible with an impact wrench,
1.16 so we do it the old-fashioned
way with a tube to act as a
1.16 lever arm and have more strength.
1.16 But nothing helps…
1.16 The screw seems completely seized in
the Silentbloc and it is the rubber
1.16 that takes the effort.
1.16 We will have to take out the heavy artillery,
but first, we check on the Mecatechnic site
1.16 that the part exists and if it is available.
1.16 Its good !
So saber saw cutting session!
1.16 If it&;s like that for each wheel,
we might as well say that we haven&;t finished…
1.16 To remove the Silentblocs, we pierce
the rubber to weaken it and
1.16 tap on the axle.
1.16 Sometimes it comes like that, but most
often, it is with an extractor provided
1.16 for this purpose that they have to be taken out.
1.16 Appropriate tools are the key to
working efficiently and
1.16 safely.
1.16 f you know what you are doing, equipping
yourself as a restoration progresses is
1.16 always more economical than going through a garage,
1.16 and you also have the satisfaction of the work done.
1.16 We now move on to the bearing housing.
1.16 There are two inside.
1.16 They are protected from dust and
water by bearing seals which
1.16 are removed first.
1.16 We also remove the circlip.
1.16 With the right pliers, it&;s done quickly.
1.16 And we open another blue box from Mécatechnic.
1.16 Not the same, even if they look alike,
this one contains the specific tools
1.16 for extracting the bearings.
1.16 Same principle as for Silentblocs,
after having fitted the tool adapted
1.16 to the size of the bearing, the large nut
must be tightened with an impact wrench or by hand,
1.16 and by screwing in, the tool extracts the bearing.
1.16 This being done, the entire rear axle is
completely dismantled and Joana
1.16 takes over the renovation of the parts.
1.16 "Baby Blue", the Tool Atelier sandblaster
is back in service!
1.16 Each element of the axle will be refurbished
and therefore first sandblasted to remove
1.16 all traces of rust as well as the old paint.
1.16 Meanwhile, Eric continues to remove
the last small elements that are
1.16 in the wheel arch.
1.16 Like the fuel filler pipe
(which is at the rear on the Syncro),
1.16 or the old cracked and rusty brake hose…
1.16 The moment comes when there is nothing
left to dismantle and when we have to find occupations…
1.16 That&;s perfect, there&;s plenty to do!
On Kaktus there is no risk of getting bored!
1.16 The exhaust is good for scrap.
1.16 During downtime, we will take care
of the engine part.
1.16 This will be our mechanical common thread.
1.16 When we can&;t move forward on the axles
because they are being sanded
1.16 or dried out, we end up in the
back of the van.
1.16 For the engine, we are very lucky,
it has only 30,000 km and it is a
1.16 standard Volkswagen exchange.
1.16 That is to say, a completely new
engine from the factory and not a repair.
1.16 Most of the rubber hoses are cracked,
some metal pipes are beginning to rust,
1.16 the electrical part is oxidized,…
1.16 In short, lots of little things that
require a little love in addition
1.16 to a good review.
1.16 After 10 years at a standstill, we still
took the compressions of the 4 cylinders
1.16 and the oil pressure to judge a little
more of its condition and the figures are correct.
1.16 Inside, it&;s like new, although it
doesn&;t look great on the outside.
1.16 « Well, the importance of changing the fuel lines
1.16 which go to the injectors which are here,
on each side of course, is that if there is a leak,
1.16 there is the exhaust pipe,
I don&;t know if we see it…
1.16 yes, it is there…
which passes just below.
1.16 So if there is a drop of gasoline
that falls on the exhaust,
1.16 well it ignites directly…
1.16 And it happens more often than you might think.
1.16 very year, we always see one or
two vans catching fire.
1.16 So we really have to change, this long
hose that goes to the the fuel rail…
1.16 there, the return, and the two little ones
that are there.
1.16 And by the way, of course, the
two seals on each injector.
1.16 So that, of course on both sides. »
1.16 After removing the fuel rails,
you can easily remove the two nuts
1.16 from the intake manifolds to change
the cracked hoses.
1.16 Now that we can see a little more clearly without
all that in the middle, we take the opportunity to clean
1.16 the engine by protecting all the openings
of the removed elements.
1.16 Not a drop of water or a grain of sand
should pass through there!
1.16 We take out the Tornador which turns out to work
very well here too to spray
1.16 a natural cleaning degreaser under pressure.
1.16 A brush with a toothbrush in hard-to-reach places,
1.16 then rinse, paying maximum attention to the electrical part
and dry with compressed air.
1.16 We end up rubbing here
and there to clean everything we can.
1.16 Just in time, Joana has just finished sanding
the last elements of the right rear axle.
1.16 It is so satisfying to see the result!
Everything went through the sandblaster, even the screws.
1.16 Now we can protect and paint.
1.16 By the way, we also renovate the engine pipes
and the fuel filler pipe.
1.16 To do this well, we use a two-component epoxy paint.
1.16 That is to say, a very resistant paint
which is obtained by mixing a base,,
1.16 here black, and a hardener.
1.16 The result speaks for itself. It shines, everything is like new,
ready to face at least thirty more years.
1.16 While it dries, we put our heads back
in the engine and tackle
1.16 the cooling circuit.
1.16 By the way, we will also make a small
improvement on the side of the alternator.
1.16 Here we removed the alternator.
1.16 The idea is to reinforce the original fixing system.
1.16 Who is caught only on the block,
1.16 and which sometimes tends to break with vibrations.
1.16 It happened to us on Popo.
1.16 So there is this part there which comes to be fixed here
1.16 And there&;s this part there,
1.16 which reinforces the whole original system.
1.16 This means that the forces are distributed
1.16 between the two nuts (bolts*) there, the two original nuts,
1.16 and the two nuts below.
1.16 And there&;s no way for it to move, no way for it to break.
1.16 We are safe on the road!
1.16 Small improvement too, with this new
aluminum part which replaces
1.16 the original plastic one.
1.16 And we change all the little tired cooling hoses.
1.16 The big ones are all in good condition.
1.16 Then we move on to the electrical part,
with cleaning of the ground connectors
1.16 which are often neglected and can cause
breakdowns, as well as all the other small
1.16 connectors and sockets in the engine compartment
which are inspected, cleaned
1.16 or changed if necessary.
1.16 Before reassembling the rear axle, we redo
the entire wheel arch.
1.16 Impossible to do the job halfway,
especially since it really needs it, even if
1.16 there is no perforating rust.
1.16 So we sandblast the underbody.
1.16 The idea isn’t to expose the sheet everywhere,
especially not!
1.16 Originally the body has a very effective
anti-corrosion treatment by cataphoresis.
1.16 We therefore only insist on the areas with
superficial rust that we will
1.16 then treat and protect with a primer.
1.16 For the rest, we just remove the old
layer of anti-gravel that wants to leave
1.16 and all the encrusted dirt.
1.16 Finally, we spray anti-gravel
to protect the wheel arch.
1.16 What is anti-gravel? Simply put,
it&;s a fairly thick, gritty kind of paint
1.16 designed to protect the chassis
from road and elemental attacks.
1.16 Ultimately, the entire underbody
will be redone, part by part.
1.16 While it dries, we start reassembling
the engine components.
1.16 And we don&;t forget to redo the fuel rails!
1.16 Here is all this beautiful, brand new world again,
in reality…
1.16 refurbished!
1.16 You remember that we removed
the Silentblocs,… well now,
1.16 we have to put in brand new ones,
and in polyurethane please!
1.16 Kaktus spoils himself! But we&;ll come back to that…
1.16 So we take out one of the famous "blue boxes",
the same one used to extract
1.16 the Silentblocs also allows them
to be put back super easily.
1.16 We almost forgot the CV axle…
come on, it&;s high time you got out of there.
1.16 New screws freshly received and here is
the trailing arm in place again.
1.16 Sounds silly, but it&;s good to see.
1.16 It&;s the turn of the new bearings
to go in their place.
1.16 When you are not super equipped, there is a
technique: put them in the freezer overnight.
1.16 I know it sounds weird, but
1.16 The metal shrinks a little and thus the installation
is facilitated without forcing and risking
1.16 damaging the bearing.
1.16 To reinstall it, just tap on a
socket of the diameter of the outer cage
1.16 to insert it into its housing, making sure
to be perfectly in line, otherwise
1.16 the bearing would be deformed and
good for the trash…
1.16 Same thing on the other side, making sure
not to forget to put back the front spacer,
1.16 and finally the clip.
1.16 Finally, we stuff well with suitable grease
the bearing which requires it.
1.16 Depending on the brand, they may
or may not be waterproof.
1.16 Basically, if the balls or rollers are visible,
it means you need to put grease!
1.16 And we finish with the new bearing seals.
1.16 Same method as for bearings.
1.16 From there, no more dust should come inside.
1.16 It is all the more delicate as
we work outdoors and the wind
1.16 sometimes blows hard in the South!
1.16 To avoid this, the stub axle is re-fitted
and the hub is temporarily screwed back on.
1.16 Now it&;s the CV axle&;s turn!
1.16 Given the grease, which is very dry,
it must be original…
1.16 No need to change the entire CV axle,
we will clean everything, check their condition
1.16 and only change the CV joints if necessary.
1.16 We are lucky this time, it comes out easily.
1.16 To disassemble the CV joints, just turn
the inner part and tadaaa!
1.16 The balls are just slightly "clipped"
into their cage.
1.16 A good cleaning later, we can see more clearly.
1.16 No marks, no trace of seizing on
the seats or on the balls…
1.16 This one can still do several tens of
thousands of kilometers without worries!
1.16 For reassembly, the operation is reversed,
paying attention to the direction of all
1.16 the elements and in particular to the
small teeth of the inner star
1.16 which must be opposite the large teeth
of the outer body and vice versa.
1.16 For the rest, we use a complete repair kit
which includes: a tube of special grease,
1.16 the famous star-head screws
1.16 and a CV boot.
1.16 Our advice, favor the best
possible quality for CV joints.
1.16 It is an essential element that
receives a lot of effort!
1.16 We finally reassemble the CV axle to the rest
to facilitate the installation, it will prevent us
1.16 from contorting ourselves under the van.
1.16 And we always end up tightening everything
by hand and torque with a torque wrench.
1.16 We can now put the brakes back on.
1.16 Nothing very complicated if we noted
precisely how all
1.16 the springs were assembled.
1.16 We will just make sure to properly clean
the brake shoes adjustment bar and put
1.16 copper grease on it to prevent it from seizing.
1.16 Once the whole system and the wheel have been reassembled,
it is this small notched wheel that
1.16 will be turned, passing through a hole provided
in the flange, in order to be able to adjust the braking.
1.16 The final touch, aviation hoses, the best!
1.16 And one! Same operation on the other side,
we skip the details but this side also
1.16 gave us hard time!
1.16 "You know you have to change them…"
1.16 One less to cut!
1.16 For the sandblasting of the underbody, this time we
do it better and we equip ourselves accordingly!
1.16 We finally move on to the front axles.
1.16 Here, less risk, so we put the whole front on
4 candles to be able to work simultaneously
1.16 on both sides.
1.16 And there is a lot of work!
1.16 All wearing parts are to be changed:
1.16 Ball joints, Silentbloc, boots, brakes,…
1.16 As soon as the first braking elements are removed,
we realize that we will not be able to recover
1.16 the calipers.
1.16 The rust has literally welded the bleed screw
and that of the brake fluid pipe.
1.16 Impossible to remove them, too bad,
we could have renovated them without that.
1.16 We continue with seized screws…
1.16 Decidedly, rust is really
the worst thing in a restoration.
1.16 "One syncro, two-wheel drive!" And yes,
because the previous owner had removed
1.16 he 4×4 system, so the front differencial and
the CV axle at the front.
1.16 He had only recovered this part
of the CV axle, to be able
1.16 to fix the wheel.
1.16 But hey, we have a syncro! So we&;re going to
put it back in 4×4, and we&;re going to remove all that. »
1.16 At this stage we have understood, as soon as
a screw resists, we no longer try to understand,
1.16 we take out the grinder and we cut…
1.16 To remove ball joint, a "ball joint puller" is used.
1.16 The tool allows you to press on the axis
of the latter as you tighten the screw
1.16 and to remove it from its housing.
1.16 The only thing to remember is to unscrew
the nut but to leave it on the ball joint
1.16 so that it doesn’t go off like a cannonball.
1.16 Yes, mechanics can be dangerous…
1.16 The axis being conical, when they are assembled
they fit into their housing and
1.16 they are sometimes hard to come out over time.
1.16 Before disassembling the upper control arm,
we make a small mark to locate the
1.16 adjustment of this one.
1.16 When you make a complete geometry, it is
at this level that the camber adjustment is made:
1.16 basically the inclination of the wheel
in relation to the vertical.
1.16 So even if it will be necessary to make
a geometry after all that we have dismantled
1.16 and changed, it is always good to identify
the basic setting to be the most correct
1.16 on reassembly.
1.16 Same operation as at the rear, we
dismantle all the Silentblocs, bearings and
1.16 we sandblast all the parts before painting them.
1.16 And there is a need…
1.16 We also have to change part of the rigid brake pipes…
1.16 " All that for this ! Because there,
it&;s totally seized up,
1.16 we can&;t remove it! So we have to change
the whole pipe and there we will cut
1.16 to be able to recover the leg, sandblast it,
redo it and the claw that is there. »
1.16 We are lucky to be able to work
in the garden of Eric&;s parents,
1.16 we are not complaining about it but we must
admit that the conditions are not ideal for
1.16 a restoration.
1.16 Being on the ground, in the dust,
contorting ourself is tiring after a while and
1.16 the fatigue of the last few weeks is starting to be felt.
1.16 So sometimes, we close our eyes and dream
of a workshop with a hydraulic lift…
1.16 There is still a lot of work to do and we are
invited to the Volkswagen California Festival
1.16 in Lacanau, in just a few days.
1.16 We have to work harder despite
the accumulated fatigue.
1.16 During our architecture studies, we were
told that in a week, there are seven days
1.16 but also seven nights…
1.16 So we take up the concept and we don&;t give up!
1.16 While it dries, we go back to our
common thread, the engine.
1.16 10 years at a standstill, a good cleaning
of the cooling circuit is essential.
1.16 For this, we use a pneumatic tool
that sends pressurized water into the circuit.
1.16 It&;s effective !
1.16 Given the color of the water
coming out of the radiator, it did him good!
1.16 New coolant and all we have to do is bleed it.
1.16 We pass under the engine to finish with it
and we mount protective plates
1.16 for the casing tubes, certainly forgotten
during the installation of the new engine
1.16 in the 2000s.
1.16 Then, it is up to the exhaust to find its place.
1.16 It&;s done for the engine! One day, we will
remove it for sure, but for now
1.16 no need to do more!
1.16 At the front, we finished dismantling the
last elements to be redone.
1.16 The steering rack is also entitled
to a complete overhaul:
1.16 good lubrication, new ball joints, new boots,
before being cleaned and repainted.
1.16 Of course, we also change the
steering shaft coupler which is cracked.
1.16 On the van, there are two more to remember to do
1.16 on the steering box, at the very front.
1.16 Finally, we install the new Powerflex Silentblocs,
yes, there are also some for that!
1.16 A steering rack like new for a few tens of euros.
1.16 After the deluge, our dear Kaktus has, not the
wheels, but the candles under the water…
1.16 Working outside is like life in a van.
1.16 It also depends on the weather…
1.16 Doesn&;t it look like a space shuttle like that?
1.16 One day you might fly, who knows?!
But in the meantime, it&;s the wheel arches
1.16 that are waiting to be redone to
finally finish the reassembly…
1.16 Last pistol shot.
1.16 There will remain the central part and
the sills to be done next time.
1.16 As we need a press for the removal and
installation of the lower ball joints,
1.16 we are going to say hello to our friend Robert
in his little workshop where we always find
1.16 everything we need!
1.16 Robert, he knows a lot about it, it must be said
that he has a lot of experience in old cars
1.16 and rallies!
A real living Automotive Technical Review!
1.16 "So we take the lower ball joints off,
they&;re press-fitted.
1.16 You have to go there with a press to take them out
and the same to re-enter them, we will put them
1.16 with the press. »
1.16 And inevitably, as there is always a problem,
they don’t want to go out.
1.16 So we take out the torch to heat
and expand the metal.
1.16 Too bad for the paint, but we&;ll put on a new coat.
1.16 Eric : “Next thing to buy, a press. Okay ?!
1.16 But the day we have a garage. »
1.16 Joana : « With a lift. »
1.16 Joana : «  Cheers! »
Eric : "It&;s not me, it&;s the press, haha"
1.16 We take advantage of the press to facilitate
our work on other elements as well.
1.16 It&;s great to have a workshop with
everything at your fingertips!
1.16 We tear off the rest of the bearing that
had remained on the front hub, then install
1.16 the new bearing in the spindle and be able
to press the hub into it.
1.16 Thank you Robert for the help, it&;s
always a pleasure to come tinker and chat!
1.16 We return to the reassembly of the van, and we
install all the new Silentblocs Powerflex
1.16 in polyurethane.
1.16 It&;s been years since we installed
them on Popo in America.
1.16 They are a little more expensive than
the original ones but they only have advantages:
1.16 never need to change them again, they do
not deteriorate over time like rubber
1.16 and they are a little more rigid,
you can feel it enormously on driving,
1.16 road holding and on the steering which is
much more precise and incisive, so it is only natural
1.16 that Kaktus was also equipped with it.
1.16 We have 48 hours left to be in Lacanau,
700 km from here!
1.16 So we are doubling our efforts! Or to be correct,
we triple them… it&;s been a while since
1.16 we are already on the doubles…
1.16 We&;ll finish in the night, luckily
the neighbors are cool!
1.16 The next day, we admire the result with
the satisfaction of a job well done.
1.16 We still have to adjust and bleed the
brakes as well as the coolant, make
1.16 a small parallelism quickly,
until everything is in place.
1.16 For the 4×4 Syncro system, we will do this
at the same time as the preparation of Kaktus,
1.16 especially since some elements
are missing at the front.
1.16 It&;s good, we take our stuff and head to Lacanau.
1.16 Next?! So it&;s all the preparation of
the van and the installation of accessories,
1.16 the last straight line for Kaktus before
setting off on an adventure!
1.16 Are you getting on board?
1.16 I don&;t know how to dance the Macarena…
.