À propos du thème «Livre voitures anciennes» : Une exploration vidéo sur YouTube

A la une, le thème « Livre voitures anciennes » publié par The Armoury

Signée par The Armoury, une vidéo publiée sur YouTube (le ) offre un angle nouveau dans le thème « Livre voitures anciennes ».

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Au moment où nous avons consulté la vidéo (), elle avait déjà cumulé quelques interactions. Le compteur de Likes indiquait: 268.

Il faut prendre en considération la durée (00:43:33s), le titre (The Armoury in Japan – From Vintage Cars to Classic Menswear, a Leading Lady of Journalism in Japan), pour une vue d’ensemble complète, ainsi que la présentation faite par l’auteur :« Yoshimi Hasegawa, a prolific menswear and automotive writer, has spent years covering British and Italian tailoring. We have a chat about her origins, the books she’s written on tailoring and more.

See Yoshimi’s book « Italian Tailoring » here – https://www.thearmoury.com/products/italian-tailoring-by-yoshimi-hasegawa?variant=13772848103495

See more of The Armoury’s products at thearmoury.com ».

Vous pouvez regarder la vidéo juste en dessous

Un ensemble de questions et réponses sur l’acquisition de livres sur les voitures anciennes a été publiésur cette page. Les informations fournies vous permettront d’évaluer la qualité et l’expertise des livres disponibles.

L’importance d’un ouvrage sur les voitures anciennes

Lesouvrages sur les voitures anciennesne sont pas seulement des sources d’information, mais aussi de véritablesobjets de collection. Certains livres présentent des photographies inédites, des dessins techniques, et des essais qui ne peuvent être trouvés ailleurs. Posséder unlivre sur sa voiture féticheou sur une époque donnée devient ainsi unplaisirqui dépasse le cadre de la lecture.

Dans un monde où l’information numérique prédomine, il peut sembler plus pratique de chercher des informations sur lesvoitures anciennesen ligne. Cependant, lesouvragesdemeurent un choix incontournable pour les passionnés. Un livrebien illustréet documenté permet d’explorer l’histoire automobileen profondeur, grâce à une qualité d’édition et un savoir-faire qui rendent la lecture unique. À la différence des ressources en ligne, souventincomplètesoufragmentées, les livres de collection fournissent desanalyses détaillées, souvent écrites par desexpertsou des journalistes dédiés.

Les différentes catégories de livres : Rétrospectives ou dédiés ?

Les rétrospectives voitures à large spectre

Ces ouvrages proposent souvent une couverture de plusieurs décennies de l’histoire voiture, rassemblant des modèles issus de diverses marques, styles et périodes. Ils sont pleins d’informations et constituent un bon point de départ pour les nouveaux fans ou ceux qui s’intéressent à l’histoire automobile dans son ensemble. Les rétrospectives bien documentées offrent un panorama captivant et mettent en avant l’évolution du design, de la technologie et des tendances. Ce type de livre est idéal pour offrir encadeau, car il s’adresse à un large public sans se concentrer sur un aspect particulier.

Les livres orientés vers une marque ou un modèle précis

Pour les fans de voitures anciennes qui sont particulièrement attachés à une marque ou un modèle spécifique, un ouvrage dédié peut s’avérer un excellent choix. Certains ouvrages se concentrent sur des marques emblématiques comme Ferrari, Bugatti, Harley-Davidson ou la Citroën 2CV. Toutefois, ces livres comportent un risque lorsqu’ils sont offerts à un collectionneur expérimenté : la personne peut déjà avoir ce livre, ou celui-ci risque de ne pas traiter des aspects qui l’intéressent réellement. Si le destinataire aime une période ou un type de véhicule plus large, une rétrospective pourrait être plus adaptée.

Avant de faire unacquisition, il est essentiel de saisir les multiples types d’livresqui existent. En fonction de vos besoins ou des préférences du destinataire si vous recherchez uncadeau, certains types d’ouvrages seront plus indiqués.

Les livres esthétiques

Les ouvrages de qualité sur les voitures anciennes se distinguent souvent par leur grand format et sont très appréciés pour leur attrait visuel. Émaillés de photos en haute définition et d’illustrations d’archives peu communes, ces ouvrages sont parfaits pour être exposés et feuilletés. Ce genre de publication est souvent recherché tant pour ses qualités visuelles que pour le contenu qu’elle propose.

Budget à allouer pour un livre automobile

Le tarif d’un ouvrage sur les voitures anciennes varie largement selon la qualité et le type d’édition :

• Livres Généralistes: En moyenne, attendez-vous à débourser entre 30 et 60 € pour un bon ouvrage d’introduction.
• Ouvrages Spécialisés et Beaux Livres: Les prix pour les éditions illustrées de qualité varient de 80 à 200 €.
• Livres de Collection et Éditions Limitées: Ces ouvrages peuvent facilement dépasser les 200 euros, surtout s’ils sont rares ou signés.

Choisir un ouvrage bien conçu

Sélectionner un ouvrage de qualité sur les voitures anciennes nécessite de prêter attention à quelques critères importants :

1. L’Expertise des Auteurs: Il est préférable de rechercher des ouvrages écrits par des experts reconnus, comme des historiens de l’automobile ou des journalistes spécialisés. Cela assure des recherches approfondies et des informations dignes de confiance.
2. Les Illustrations et la Qualité d’Édition: Un livre sur les voitures anciennes acquiert de la valeur avec de belles illustrations. Privilégiez les livres qui sont bien illustrés, avec des photos capturant l’essence des véhicules, leurs lignes et leur caractère. Une bonne qualité d’édition, avec une reliure solide et du papier de haute qualité, garantit un ouvrage durable.
3. Les Avis et les Critiques: Avant de procéder à un achat, il peut être utile de lire les avis et critiques des lecteurs. Les passionnés d’automobile partagent souvent leurs impressions en ligne, ce qui peut aider à évaluer si le livre répond à vos attentes.

Le Guide Idéal pour Tous les Passionnés

Choisir un livre sur les voitures anciennes peut être un vrai plaisir, que ce soit pour étoffer votre collection ou pour faire un cadeau significatif. Que votre préférence aille vers une rétrospective ou un ouvrage dédié, il est important de prendre le temps d’explorer les diverses options afin de dénicher celui qui répondra le mieux à votre passion ou à celle du destinataire. Des livres bien réalisés, regorgeant d’histoires et d’images, sont des joyaux pour les fans d’automobiles anciennes et des souvenirs précieux à garder.

Où se procurer des livres de collection voiture

Le choix du bon livre dépend aussi du lieu d’achat. Voici quelques suggestions pour trouver des ouvrages de qualité :

• Librairies Spécialisées et Salons de l’Automobile: Des librairies dédiées dans l’automobile offrent des livres anciens et rares. De plus, les salons d’automobiles anciennes et les événements dédiés aux collectionneurs mettent souvent à disposition des livres spécifiques.
• Sites de Collection et Plateformes en Ligne: AbeBooks, eBay, Amazon et Le Bon Coin regorgent de livres, y compris des éditions d’occasion. Pour dénicher des éditions rares, tournez-vous vers les sites dédiés ou les catalogues de bibliophilie.
• Bourses aux Livres et Bibliothèques: Certaines bibliothèques permettent d’emprunter des ouvrages rares, et les bourses aux livres offrent parfois des trouvailles à des prix attractifs.

Les voitures vintage, joyaux de l’histoire voiture, captivent par leur style, leur ingénierie, et leur importance culturelle. Les fans cherchent souvent à enrichir leurs connaissances avec des livres, mais le choix sur le marché est varié. Comment choisir le bon livre, que ce soit pour soi-même ou pour un ami ? Ce guide vous assistera dans l’exploration des différents types de livres, des lieux d’achat et des gammes de prix.

Pourquoi certains livres sont-ils si chers à l’achat ?

Les tarifs des livres de collection sur l’automobile peuvent paraître élevés en raison de leur qualité d’édition et de leur valeur intrinsèque. Les ouvrages en édition limitée, anciens ou signés sont recherchés pour leur rareté. En outre, les livres de luxe incluent fréquemment des photographies et des documents uniques, des reliures en cuir ou des étuis de protection, les rendant ainsi précieux aux yeux des collectionneurs.

Pourquoi les prix de certains livres peuvent-ils être si élevés ?

Pour réduire vos dépenses, il est judicieux de se tourner vers les livres d’occasion. Les plateformes comme Rakuten, eBay ou les librairies de seconde main sont d’excellents endroits pour dénicher des livres en bon état à des prix intéressants. Les forums de passionnés et les groupes de collectionneurs sont également de bonnes ressources.

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#Armoury #Japan #Vintage #Cars #Classic #Menswear #Leading #Lady #Journalism #Japan

Retranscription des paroles de la vidéo: [Music] hello everybody um this evening we are joined by mr shimi hasagawa who is one of my favorite men’s rewriters in japan and um mrs hasagawa has written a bunch of really wonderful books on menswear such as satori italiana or italian tailoring in its english form as well as a bunch of other books on english tailoring in general um thank you for joining us this evening and thank you very much for inviting me and giving me this wonderful opportunity oh yeah thanks for letting us use your living room actually i think that’s that’s the fun part for me ah yes then so finally so you came to my flight and also from the beginning so i was speaking about sort of this planning mm-hmm yushmi sam made pasta for us and it was super good it was wonderful okay so um can you tell us a little bit about your career you had a very interesting career and you you didn’t start as a menswear writer either no so actually so you know that so japan is quite famous for the gender gap and then so after i graduated the university my parents forced me to work for the big company then i started working for the one closing company it’s called the renown then at that moment leonardo was one of the biggest closing company in japan but i could see it as my video story for long time it’s very difficult to continue job as a woman then i decided to i started working with the british automobile industry okay then i really enjoyed working with them for many years then after that that’s all i moved on to the journalism and what were you doing in the british automotive industry so mainly so i was dealing with the british broadcast it’s quite like the solid one but there are so units a bunch of the car enthusiasts and i really enjoyed working with them and then i thought my videos i really wanted to discover more what attracted you to british cars um i think there’s so if you say the british cars that is the huge variety so one build is like in the backyard garage and another one is formula one cars there are many many kind and users in uk [Music] so they really enjoy that their passions and also if you can say the craftsmanship yeah and history or so those kind of so you don’t have to be rich to enjoy cars so that is quite interesting thing to see and also it has the hierarchy big high like on top of the end of that so that is the formula one then and also the parts so you can just on weekends you can go to the cart with your children yeah and you had a like you had a specialty you had a niche for yourself in the british automotive industry too didn’t you what was that i remember last time we had a kind of a chat about your previous life um you were a specialist in lotus weren’t you in lotus cars yes yeah can you tell us a little bit about that just because you know you don’t meet specialists in lotuses all the time either ah at that moment the in japan there wasn’t any specialists for lotus esprit there were of course there were many road specialists in japan but it’s because of the contract and some difficulty issues so no one could import the rotors cars from lotus dealers because of the contract issues it was very difficult then i went there i negotiated with the lotus dealers and also the at the end of the day so i had the discussion with lotus cars itself then the car this had a discussion with the manufacturers that was quite exciting i was young yeah then every six months i went to england to buy the two s3 or three s3 so that was very exciting yeah that does sound pretty interesting yes and then at some point you decided you wanted to move on and try something new which was writing yeah and was it immediately into menswear writing or you tried writing for other fields as well basically i started writing for about the course because that is my speciality but gradually because i graduated at university now i have the enough knowledge about the art and the culture then so being the journalist is the long time my dream so when i was a child i so always many people says that you are very talented for writing then i thought i wanted to try once and at the same time i thought that even during this dealing with the british automotive industry i could see so many rich peoples then i thought that even i’m working so hard and will be the rich like them what is the reason i’m working for heart then i thought i’d like to leave a testimony on my life then i thought that is the general reason and publishing books i see interesting so it’s like a legacy for you yes the reason the reason will be the result being born and what attracts you what do you like about menswear in general or actually let me change the question is tailoring a menswear thing or is it now genderless it could be men’s or women’s uh if you say so that tayloring so that is about menswear but at the same time the core of the menswear is a tailored garment then i think that so nowadays genderless so one is the people can wear anything then and at the same time so more women needs to work then they would like to break that ceiling the glass ceiling of the carriers then if they really want to work as a director then they need the essence-tailored garments interesting so you could say the so-tailored government is the quite easiest way to look properly and also the better so you look better if you’re wearing the suit and you feel the confidence so men or women a man or woman you feel like you look better in tailoring yes i think so you heard that right yeah i mean so if you i mean so working in parliament it would be better to have fruits yeah without food it’s very difficult to get some respect or you show the respect so the both sides yeah and i feel like especially in japan like being in tailored clothing is is very much part of professional culture also yeah i think so but uh maybe that is quite interesting issues for in for quite a long time in japan so we don’t have the any kind of the history of the tailoring in europe like so you always telling me that so you started to be interested in the tellering because of your father yeah that’s right many people knows already that so what should you wear but in japan so some parts some people know but some people don’t know about anything so people are feeling so we must wear the suits because of the everyone wears the suits so it doesn’t mean what kind of quality and it doesn’t mean that what kind of wardrobe you have to build it up [Music] i think now is the japanese people realize that now is the time so you have to build up your waterloo as a weapon interesting do you think that’s still true right now uh having gone through two years of covid do you think uh japanese people’s professional wardrobes are still pretty similar to pre-covet or do you think people have different dress codes now like different standards it has a different standards of course it’s more casual but even it’s more casual so now is people going back to the office then so if you’re wearing the throw over or sweaters all the time then how you behave like that so you are the director of the company um so if you are of course the jeff bezos wasn’t so if you are kind of the super person of course you can wear anything yeah but normal ordinary people i think it would be better to wear suit yeah i think so it’s easier yeah i i mean that’s the that’s exactly it it is easier yeah right it is easier when everyone kind of has a sense of what they’re meant to be wearing yeah for their job it’s just one less thing to think about yeah and plus it’s generally pretty flattering everyone generally looks pretty good yeah yeah into your clothing you know so i think the maybe so if you’re a teenager of course you can wear the just white t-shirts and the jeans look great but certain age it would be very difficult to show your body with the casual clothes i’m already at that age believe me so yeah you are always young but anyway so i mean even the so well in the sweaters how you look great yeah i agree absolutely um let’s talk a little bit about your books yeah what was the first book you wrote uh the first book is the i think that i wrote another book about that’s all the wisdom of churchill but my readers were for the men’s sterling this is the first book it’s called the saber row i so this is my another challenge so you know also japanese i grew up in quite conservative japanese society and always people say that you are women you shouldn’t do this you shouldn’t do this then i says i want to be a writer i want to be a journalist then i would like to publish books like this then everyone says so it’s impossible you cannot do this yeah and then in japan so this kind of coffee table book never be successful then you cannot do this but i said so i don’t want to make any kind of similar type of book as the magazines so if the so there are many many information pictures and then people of course they can they can buy magazines rather than books then i would like to make a kind of documentary for the these books and also i’d like to describe the historical background sure and at the same time then now always the sabiru is a very difficult place to continue the tailoring business then i described how difficult and how they survived well you really proved them wrong i mean the book is wonderful thank you very much were you happy with how it turned out oh yes because the everyone was so surprised that they also was um and also the book was successful well i think also at least for me who’s read quite a few of your books like they should be surprised that the quality of the information is really really high because i’ve always thought of you as someone who really goes above and beyond when it comes to research for not just your books but even for your magazine articles because you write regularly for the rake japan and for quite a few of the other men’s magazines in japan as well um so kudos to you absolutely okay so this was your first book and then what came after this the after that i think the so this one is the holly sweet and along sweater was this ever in english i can’t remember now no this is only in japanese but i think so the quality is quite high and so this is the half is about the hall street then half of them is around sweater in ireland let’s go to london island combined together what sort of people read a book like this in japan in japan you know people so in japan my beautiful famers the ivy generation they are great fun of the harry street and alan jumpers i think that is a huge boom of this happened in 1970s what happened in 1970s 1970s i think the so alan jumpers this is the so you know the ban produced there’s a fisherman center then it’s hugely popular and everyone was wearing people say so and also the sahara street is like there is a famous film about the graduation the stakeholder then he was wearing the harley street and so on and that is the maybe the double effect of the iv under her street and the jacket and so on so on this is kind of separate but you know there was the iv style trend in japan a lot of it was to do with van van is a really important japanese fashion company that’s now long long dead now right yeah and gone for a while but they were all about ivy style and um following that there was kind of a british trend as well but then it got to a point where classical italia like italian classic style just took over everything yes how did you feel about that actually it because of japanese people don’t have the education i think the basic education like european then so someone says so this is the this is the quite good thing then you have to follow this that is becoming a trend then people get brought the next trend and the next trend and next trend so that is if you say fashion that is quite good but at the same time they’re always changing them so it’s not good for the men’s squad room yeah it’s nice to have things that stay in your wardrobe for quite a while too and also i think that’s on now is the so if you can watch the tv even the show the newscaster some tv casters and also so some even senior people they are wearing very badly okay because i think that’s all people don’t think about the the bottom down shots or they don’t have the basic knowledge about this western clothes yeah yeah and also always the so the introduction of the people their their buyers or their sellers of course they say that so you should buy this because this is good and this is trend or something like this even now always of course so they are doing the not propaganda but it’s a good information and also the but that is the reason why they are doing this because they want to sell the products yeah but culturally like in terms of like a business not a business culture maybe like a business model japan got really good at that as in japan got really good at instructing consumers how to wear something and then because you know how to wear it you should buy it now you know that’s a very japanese thing to me yeah yeah i think because that’s all japanese like the department store they really care about the customers what they really want then customers are like accord and they can say anything and they can ask anything then so this kind of the business systems i think it’s quite the consumer for injury yeah definitely definitely what is that term for when a department store like you’re a vip customer at the department store and the demand store will bring the clothes to your house oh yeah what what’s the name of that guy yeah yeah yeah yeah so gasho has a special power for the consumption in japan okay yeah because a lot of department stores literally like that’s a massive chunk of their business right yeah and they turn up with just like a truck of clothes that they think you might want and because you’re a vip you can just enjoy it in the comfort of your living room and you pick what you want and then they sell that to you and they take the rest away right yeah yeah and also so some people so japanese paper mentality are kind of the loyality so if they really like the self-sales clock and they said so if you say good okay i will going to get it i will buy it yeah like there’s a lot of trust yeah sales associates that kind of relationship is the good way for many years but now is that so different generation came then maybe so we have to think about the how we could change those business systems hmm interesting i would love to do a separate video on that someday and to get some of our friends at say like isetan or something oh yeah to talk about it because i think that style of doing business is super interesting but anyway um let me just keep going so after this book what came next then after that so this is my another challenge is so many people are asking me the why you want so why you didn’t publish your book in english but then of course i’m a japanese then this publisher is japanese then i would like to publish in bilingual versions but this is a surprising a board that japanese and english yeah i remember when was it this was 2011 or 12 something like that oh no no much was it later later yeah so 2012 is like this okay yeah but this is huge challenge and also it’s very difficult to because there’s so the layout i have to delete or so i have to adjust the layout so japanese and english sports it’s very difficult to draw you know another reason i’m really glad you wrote these books is because it’s a very interesting record you know like this was kind of like a really golden moment for taylor’s and i think right now especially in the last two years let’s be honest like tailors have not had an easy time like not as many people are going to tailors to make clothing and this was a really nice record of them at a very perfect moment in their in their business careers uh yes and so this book is all about the it’s called the bespoke style but it’s about the british craftsmanship then i’d like to so this sabiro is i explained the so what is having low what is the history at the beginning then this is i’d like to explain about the brief history of menswear for this then after that’s the of course if you say the main square and the tailoring and the craftsmanship that is related to and influenced by strongly by the military uniforms of course i put some military uniforms tips and of course shoes they must have then so this book has the not only for taylor’s and also the bespoke when i move this glass it’s making me super nervous yeah yeah sorry i don’t want to spill red wine all over your living room i did so many times wow this book is great though i love that you got a lot of the bespoke shoemakers in there too yeah yeah fabulous yeah this book should make us uh so this is another issue of the kind of ancient business and then so some bespoke shoes are almost how do you believe this the maiden also made by hans from scratch it’s a wonderful craft yeah and japan now is such a beautiful tradition for handmade shoes i think so the mentality wise i think so japanese people are quite good at making shoes underwater definitely definitely no why do you think that is ah i think so japanese people basically if you say the classman they don’t care about the how much effort you have to so that is a job you choose that is a mentality then they are quite pleased to they dedicated for their own life to make the soil the best products as much as possible i think but you know so the making bespoke shoes is very hard and you need to train so many hours and also that you need to have a certain talent if you’d like to make a beautiful bespoke shoes yeah absolutely absolutely okay and then this kind of was the end of your of your uk arc uh yeah you moved on to an italian arc after yeah yeah so what came next after this ah then i thought i never thought i could make the so italian tailoring book because you know so there are two big streams one is a british sterling and so another one is italian tailoring but as you said as a classical italy there were those kind of big streams i don’t think that i could get into so because of the british motor industry or i have some many good friends i could get so they introduced me to get into the society and then the bespoke shoes and so on so on but i don’t think i could get into but one day there’s a vital valve canonical came to me and they said so they are quite concerned about the the great moisture the average age is the over 70s and also the so every year they are disappearing and they offered me to make the book like the sabiru but the sartoria italian barger i love this book by the way i read this like cover to cover i think it’s amazing thank you because what was really amazing about this book is that you managed to make every like you managed to make every tailor distinct yes i think a lesser journalist would really have struggled to make that many different tailors not all kind of like mush into one right because they all have really beautiful interesting and distinct stories so i absolutely loved it yes how many taylors did you visit to to write at sartoria italiana 27 wow okay and you did this yourself basically too yes of course so it was an incredible journey from the train then like so palemo from north south now but for example i expected the so parallel music is similar to the neighbors because of the geographically reason but once i went there so totally different the palermo was some point it’s quite influenced by the british sharing than the napoli you know the total girlfriend and also napoli has the 14 terrorists and branson i would like to described as the the cultural aspects because of the so this so no one ever has to visit even so as you said even it’s a quite small terror in the small village then the some tailors are incredibly good but they don’t want to expand at all um i was so shocked to see that that’s all they are just two people and they said so the taylor is not so good joe for leaving the money then maybe so he would like to finish or something like this yeah but at the same time the quite famous taylor’s very top of the world like the colosseum liberal and then they saw antonio panico and then yeah yes yeah and then historical issues then lubinerci and antonio panico and then visiting the supporting taylors in neighbors is very important for me and important for the book yeah um can you briefly this might be a very difficult question can you briefly describe the differences in the different parts of italy when it comes to tailoring basically now is there so many tailors so basically in southern there isn’t any proper industry for making living for some people then there are many tailoring industries and tailors in naples exists then so they are going back to the italy that is so since maybe the 1950s or even much even longer [Music] so some southern terrors are going to nurse to making living so like lebilano then now it’s very difficult to see the difference between the northern and south but basically the sonos is so you know so italy is the great quite diverse of the countries this is not the one country culture like england yeah then so basically they are different people different forms not italian yeah it wasn’t that long ago when it was a bunch of little warring states yes yes that all just happened to glob together yeah yeah yeah that is just just a 100 or something like so years ago then the news is quite similar to the the mentality and aesthetic is quite similar to maybe french and also british then it’s quite structured then the florence has the this is the another different part of country but still they’re in in the middle of the sonos and in the middle then they they much more and also they feel like because of the so they have the quite long history of fighting yeah then so their aesthetic is quite masculine so they’re fighters also constantino yeah so not feminine like so in naples they have their so loyal and also quite rich country used to be then they have the many alex chocolate so they have the very flourish culture and also because of the weather so they always that they prefer the light weight yeah and so the temperature and the mentality so totally different yeah and that’s one of the things i really love about italy and tailoring in italy is that it’s always very expressive of the place that it comes from you know like you can kind of tell when a suit is from milan and kind of tell when a suit is from somewhere in the south naples or sicily whatever too and even florence like as this thing that’s in between north and south definitely has its own look too yeah yeah then the room is like quite so long the style in rome is very similar to paris i think because of the clientele are the similar to paris and also they are strongly connected to the politics then they also they really like the structured type of garments okay do you what’s your next book after this is there a next book after this um so this is my question about you so do you think so that asia will be the next leader of menswear for the future i think it depends on what what sort of menswear you’re talking about um [Music] yeah i think there’s a chance for sure i think actually china is is a big question mark right like i think people still look at china as like as not a place that has an aesthetic that you want to look up to but i think there will come a point where like young chinese people evolve into actually very talented designers and then they’ll be able to contribute to the world of style in their own way too you know and i mean we’ve already seen that with japan right like japan has people like ray kawakubo yoji yamamoto like so many amazing designers came out of japan in the last 50 years and it’s i think it’d be unfair to say that oh that might not that might never happen for china either you know and also actually to be fair korea also some incredible terrorists come out of korea some incredible brands coming out of korea um so you know like i think that the world will become the world of style will become more diverse and i think that’s great i think actually if there was um a book i would be very curious about uh it would be more and maybe this is not such a good general appeal book but i am fascinated by how japan basically kept the classical classical italian style going for so long yeah you know there was just like it was like this perfect storm of a bunch of different factors right like people were interested in italy just about had enough money to do it there was enough brands and department stores and whatnot that were willing to push along and it kind of became like the standard and i think if you were to for instance go back to when i was starting to get more into menswear maybe like 15 20 years ago like man if you wanted to see really good classical italian style you were actually better off looking at japanese magazines looking at japanese examples because it was always so smartly put together and so smartly presented you know it was always very understandable and this is like i was saying before something that japanese fashion brands japanese fashion media do really well yeah like they really know how to present something that’s easy to understand and easy to buy into yeah as well like for me even though i grew up in the uk i wasn’t i’d never visited italy when i was young and italy was actually in many ways more foreign to me than japan was despite it being much closer to me so i think there’s an interesting kind of fashion history record to be written to fill in that gap because i think that gap is super interesting yeah and plus a lot of those guys are still around like i would say people like nakamura-san for instance right he definitely is one of the the founders of like classical italian style in japan i think the as a icon or maybe some kind of trend leaders japanese are quite sensitive about the salt land and what’s next and what’s next i think that is a quite good matching of the instagram so putting the information on sms is the quite good way for the customers yeah so what is the what is the trend of the time and what’s next but at the same time for if you are going i think that’s all the both ways is a good way so people want to buy it but at the same time so just going to the trend and trend and trend and people are tired of this yeah yeah definitely i think that’s kind of um where the world is is moving towards as well right like yeah i think even though fast fashion is because fast fashion is basically the the final step yeah of that whole system right like you can’t really get any faster than fast fashion the whole point of fast fashion is that things change super fast and you’ve always got something new to buy but i think that even if not even the financial tide hasn’t turned the popular tide i think is starting to turn right like people definitely don’t brag about buying something from h m because they also don’t want to be associated with fast fashion whereas before they were like whatever i don’t mind being associated with it you know so we’ll see we’ll see what comes next right yeah yeah i think i expect the even not only men i think the women so they realized so they need to have the tailored garments so proprietary garments in their wardrobes for work so they need to build up the water so in japan so some people have the quite a big knowledge about their clothes but some people don’t think about this so how to build up the water rules if you know more and you need less yeah i mean i i love and this is the approach that we try to take at the army is that we like the idea of building a wardrobe for somebody you know like it’s fine to sell somebody a single garment but what’s more interesting is like really helping them figure out what does their wardrobe need to look like to like serve all their needs and to to reflect who they are and also to to help them present themselves professionally when they need to you know yeah and also they have some in japan so black tie also those kind of protocol is not so common if you have reception yeah and some people is wearing this open black tie and some people experience jacket and jeans and so on so on so yeah yeah yeah if you’re wearing so japanese said the tuxedo that is a dinner suit then normally they are wearing maybe for the wedding but it doesn’t mean the black tie then usually they are wearing that’s a black suit then white thai for the wedding actually that that’s a fun thing i dig into for a second like is it a japanese thing when i see guys in silver tuxedos uh yes very much so and also the blue or yeah the colored tuxedo where the hell did this come from i think all japanese but basically i mean for the menswear and even so closing always leading the designers then designers imagination creative doesn’t match for the men’s values of course [Music] so if you have the basic knowledge then you said so i shouldn’t wear this for my wedding but if of course if there’s a wedding planner or those kind of people they don’t have enough knowledge about the basic menswear or the basic formal wear now if professional says the so maybe that in summer you should wear the blue type of the tuxedo is nice than they are wearing in hawaii but i because i don’t mind like i don’t even mind a blue tuxedo it was like a springtime wedding and the environment was appropriate i can live with that but it’s like when it goes into like silver and really really shiny you know yes and then with like that very puffy kind of yes cravat yeah i’m like wow that’s yes that’s wow when do you think that started i think for many years many years huh it’s not very special things to say yeah so this is the reason i say so nowadays i think that not only for the japanese society so if you go abroad you need the proper knowledge about the so menswear bathroom then you don’t have to feel terrified and also the so if you have to choose the the occasion so if you address up that is the better situation than the only one you are that dress down yeah i think so yeah what’s that phrase it’s better to be breath better to be dressed up than dressed down yes very true okay yes we should wrap up yeah is there anything else you’d like to talk about uh finish up um i think that’s so you uh so you have the responsibility for teaching those kind of mental water love issues and the people quite expect to do so yeah we try you know like we try to give our view and hopefully we try to give rules that are reasonable and people can understand so you have the both type of views so you are english and that’s the same thing that you’re asian then your family or with the japanese culture then so you can give the best advice for anyone we’re the best but we try we try i i think that especially right now um where there’s a lot of different subcultures there’s a lot of different kind of aesthetics going on yes yes it is healthy to not i mean this is this is bad because we just said this whole thing about about shiny wedding suits which i’m not a fan of but i do think at the end of the day like people should try to enjoy what they wear because i think that’s really really important because i think what’s even more unhealthy is when you really dislike what you wear you know and sometimes like knowing the rules and knowing why it’s good to wear certain things actually makes you appreciate it more yeah it makes it more enjoyable to wear you know and i mean so if you have to wear the tailored garments that is the most of things for work or for social issues then if you have enough knowledge of course that you can have them more casual down or you can break by your own way but unless you know enough knowledge you cannot do this you cannot enjoy it’s true okay well you schmidt thank you for your time this evening yes thank you very much i really enjoyed as always and thank you very much for everyone to watch this yeah all right until the next episode thanks for watching yeah thank you very much [Music] .

Déroulement de la vidéo:

0 [Music]
0 hello everybody um this evening we are
0 joined by mr shimi hasagawa who is one
0 of my favorite men&;s rewriters in japan
0 and um mrs hasagawa has written a bunch
0 of really wonderful books on menswear
0 such as satori italiana or italian
0 tailoring in its english form
0 as well as a bunch of other books on
0 english tailoring in general
0 um
0 thank you for joining us this evening
0 and thank you very much for inviting me
0 and giving me this wonderful opportunity
0 oh yeah thanks for letting us use your
0 living room actually i think that&;s
0 that&;s the fun part for me ah yes then
0 so finally so you came to my flight and
0 also from the beginning so i was
0 speaking about sort of this planning
0 mm-hmm
0 yushmi sam made pasta for us and it was
0 super good it was wonderful
0 okay so um
0 can you tell us a little bit about your
0 career you had a very interesting career
0 and you you didn&;t start as a menswear
0 writer either no
0 so actually
0 so you know that so japan is quite
0 famous for the gender gap and then
0 so
0 after i graduated the university my
0 parents forced me to work for the
0 big company then i started working for
0 the
0 one
0 closing company
0 it&;s called the renown
0 then at that moment leonardo was one of
0 the biggest closing company in japan
0 but i could see it as my video story for
0 long time
0 it&;s very difficult to
0 continue job as a woman
0 then
0 i decided to
0 i started working with the british
0 automobile industry okay
0 then i really enjoyed working with them
0 for many years
0 then after that that&;s all i moved on to
0 the journalism
0 and what were you doing in the british
0 automotive industry
0 so mainly so i was dealing with the
0 british broadcast
0 it&;s quite like the solid one
0 but there are so units a bunch of the
0 car enthusiasts and i really enjoyed
0 working with them
0 and
0 then i thought my videos
0 i really wanted to discover more
0 what attracted you to british cars um
0 i think there&;s so if you say the
0 british cars that is the huge variety
0 so one build is like
0 in the backyard garage and another one
0 is formula one cars
0 there are many many kind
0 and users in uk
0 [Music]
0 so they really
0 enjoy that their passions and also
0 if you can say the craftsmanship yeah
0 and history or so those kind of so you
0 don&;t have to be rich to enjoy cars so
0 that is quite interesting thing to see
0 and also it has the hierarchy big high
0 like
0 on top of the end of that so that is the
0 formula one
0 then
0 and also the parts so you can just
0 on weekends you can go to the cart with
0 your children
0 yeah and you had a like you had a
0 specialty you had a niche for yourself
0 in the british automotive industry too
0 didn&;t you what was that i remember last
0 time
0 we had a kind of a chat about your
0 previous life um you were a specialist
0 in lotus weren&;t you in lotus cars yes
0 yeah can you tell us a little bit about
0 that just because you know you don&;t
0 meet specialists in lotuses all the time
0 either ah
0 at that moment the
0 in japan there wasn&;t any specialists
0 for lotus esprit there were of course
0 there were many road specialists in
0 japan but it&;s because of the contract
0 and some difficulty issues so no one
0 could import the rotors cars from lotus
0 dealers
0 because of the contract issues it was
0 very difficult then
0 i went there i negotiated with the lotus
0 dealers and also the at the end of the
0 day so i
0 had the discussion with lotus cars
0 itself then the car
0 this had a discussion with the
0 manufacturers that was quite exciting i
0 was young yeah then
0 every
0 six months i went to england to buy the
0 two s3 or three s3 so that was very
0 exciting yeah
0 that does sound pretty interesting yes
0 and then
0 at some point you decided you wanted to
0 move on and try something new which was
0 writing yeah and was it immediately into
0 menswear writing or you tried writing
0 for other fields as well basically i
0 started writing for about the course
0 because that is my speciality
0 but gradually because i
0 graduated at university now i have the
0 enough knowledge about the art and the
0 culture
0 then
0 so
0 being the journalist is the
0 long time my dream so when i was a child
0 i so always many people says that you
0 are very talented for writing then
0 i thought i wanted to try once
0 and at the same time i thought that
0 even
0 during this dealing with the british
0 automotive industry
0 i could see so many rich peoples
0 then
0 i thought that
0 even i&;m working so hard and will be the
0 rich
0 like them
0 what is the reason i&;m working for heart
0 then i thought i&;d like to leave a
0 testimony on my life
0 then
0 i thought that is the general reason and
0 publishing books
0 i see interesting so it&;s like a legacy
0 for you
0 yes
0 the reason
0 the reason will be
0 the result being born
0 and what attracts you
0 what do you like about menswear in
0 general or actually let me change the
0 question
0 is tailoring a menswear thing or is it
0 now genderless it could be men&;s or
0 women&;s
0 uh if you say so that tayloring
0 so that is about menswear but at the
0 same time the core of the menswear is a
0 tailored garment
0 then i think that so nowadays genderless
0 so one is the people can wear anything
0 then
0 and at the same time so more women
0 needs to work
0 then
0 they would like to break that ceiling
0 the glass ceiling of the carriers
0 then if they really want to
0 work as a director
0 then they need the essence-tailored
0 garments
0 interesting
0 so you could say the so-tailored
0 government is the quite
0 easiest way to look properly
0 and also the
0 better so you look better if you&;re
0 wearing the suit and you feel the
0 confidence
0 so
0 men or women a man or woman you feel
0 like you look better in tailoring yes i
0 think so you heard that right yeah
0 i mean so if you
0 i mean so
0 working in parliament
0 it would be better to have fruits yeah
0 without food it&;s very difficult to get
0 some respect or
0 you show the respect
0 so the both sides yeah
0 and
0 i feel like especially in japan like
0 being in tailored clothing is is very
0 much part of professional culture also
0 yeah i think so but uh
0 maybe that is quite interesting issues
0 for in
0 for quite a long time in japan
0 so we don&;t have the any kind of the
0 history of the tailoring in europe like
0 so you always telling me that
0 so you started to be interested in the
0 tellering because of your father
0 yeah that&;s right
0 many people knows already that so what
0 should you wear
0 but in japan
0 so some parts some people know but some
0 people don&;t know about anything
0 so people are feeling so we must wear
0 the suits because of the everyone wears
0 the suits
0 so it doesn&;t mean what kind of quality
0 and it doesn&;t mean that what kind of
0 wardrobe you have to build it up
0 [Music]
0 i think
0 now is the japanese people realize that
0 now is the time
0 so you have to build up your waterloo as
0 a weapon
0 interesting
0 do you think that&;s still true right now
0 uh having gone through two years of
0 covid do you think
0 uh japanese people&;s professional
0 wardrobes are still pretty similar to
0 pre-covet or do you think
0 people have different dress codes now
0 like different standards it has a
0 different standards
0 of course it&;s more casual
0 but even it&;s more
0 casual so
0 now is people going back to the office
0 then
0 so if you&;re wearing the throw over or
0 sweaters all the time then how you
0 behave like that so
0 you are the director of the company um
0 so if you are of course the jeff bezos
0 wasn&;t
0 so if you are kind of the super person
0 of course you can wear anything yeah but
0 normal ordinary people i think it would
0 be better to wear suit
0 yeah
0 i think so it&;s easier yeah i i mean
0 that&;s the that&;s exactly it it is
0 easier yeah right it is easier when
0 everyone kind of has a sense of what
0 they&;re meant to be wearing yeah for
0 their job it&;s just one less thing to
0 think about yeah and plus it&;s generally
0 pretty flattering everyone generally
0 looks pretty good yeah yeah into your
0 clothing you know so
0 i think the maybe so if you&;re a
0 teenager of course you can wear the just
0 white t-shirts and the jeans look great
0 but certain age it would be very
0 difficult to show your body
0 with the casual clothes i&;m already at
0 that age believe me so yeah
0 you are always young but
0 anyway so
0 i mean
0 even the so well in the sweaters
0 how you look great
0 yeah i agree absolutely
0 um let&;s talk a little bit about your
0 books yeah what was the first book you
0 wrote
0 uh the first book is the i think that
0 i wrote another book about that&;s all
0 the wisdom of churchill but my readers
0 were for the
0 men&;s sterling this is the first book
0 it&;s called the saber row
0 i
0 so this is my another challenge
0 so you know also japanese i
0 grew up in quite conservative
0 japanese society and always people say
0 that you are women you shouldn&;t do this
0 you shouldn&;t do this then
0 i says i want to be a
0 writer i want to be a journalist then i
0 would like to publish books like this
0 then everyone says so it&;s impossible
0 you cannot do this yeah
0 and then in japan so this kind of coffee
0 table book never be successful
0 then you cannot do this
0 but i said so i don&;t want to make any
0 kind of similar type of book
0 as the magazines
0 so if the so there are many many
0 information pictures and then people of
0 course
0 they can
0 they can buy magazines rather than books
0 then i would like to make a kind of
0 documentary for
0 the these books
0 and also i&;d like to
0 describe the historical background sure
0 and at the same time then now
0 always the sabiru is a very difficult
0 place to continue the tailoring business
0 then i described how difficult and how
0 they survived
0 well you really proved them wrong i mean
0 the book is wonderful
0 thank you very much
0 were you happy with how it turned out
0 oh yes because
0 the
0 everyone was so surprised that
0 they also was um
0 and also
0 the book was successful well i think
0 also at least for me who&;s read quite a
0 few of your books like
0 they should be surprised that the
0 quality of the information is really
0 really high
0 because i&;ve always thought of you as
0 someone who
0 really goes above and beyond when it
0 comes to research for not just your
0 books but even for your magazine
0 articles because you write regularly for
0 the rake japan
0 and for quite a few of the other men&;s
0 magazines in japan as well
0 um
0 so kudos to you absolutely okay so this
0 was your first book and then what came
0 after this
0 the after that i think the
0 so this one is the holly sweet and along
0 sweater
0 was this ever in english i can&;t
0 remember now no
0 this is only in japanese
0 but i think so the quality is quite high
0 and
0 so this is the half is about the hall
0 street
0 then half of them is around sweater in
0 ireland let&;s go to london island
0 combined together what sort of people
0 read a book like this in japan
0 in japan
0 you know people so in japan my beautiful
0 famers the ivy generation they are great
0 fun of the harry street and alan jumpers
0 i think that is a huge boom of
0 this happened in 1970s
0 what happened in 1970s 1970s i think the
0 so alan jumpers this is the so you know
0 the ban
0 produced there&;s a
0 fisherman center then
0 it&;s hugely popular and everyone was
0 wearing people say so
0 and also the sahara street is like
0 there is a famous film about the
0 graduation the stakeholder then he was
0 wearing the harley street and so on and
0 that is the maybe the double effect of
0 the iv under her street and the jacket
0 and so on so on
0 this is kind of separate but
0 you know there was the iv style
0 trend in japan a lot of it was to do
0 with van van is a really important
0 japanese fashion company that&;s now long
0 long dead now right yeah and gone for a
0 while
0 but they were all about ivy style and um
0 following that there was kind of a
0 british trend as well
0 but then it got to a point where
0 classical italia like italian classic
0 style just took over everything yes how
0 did you feel about that
0 actually it
0 because of japanese people don&;t have
0 the
0 education
0 i think the basic education like
0 european
0 then
0 so someone says so this is the
0 this is the quite good thing then you
0 have to follow this
0 that is becoming a trend
0 then people get brought the next trend
0 and the next trend and next trend
0 so that is if you say fashion that is
0 quite good but at the same time they&;re
0 always changing
0 them
0 so it&;s not good for the men&;s squad
0 room
0 yeah
0 it&;s nice to have things that stay in
0 your wardrobe for quite a while too and
0 also i think that&;s on now is the so
0 if you can watch the tv even the show
0 the newscaster some
0 tv casters and also so some
0 even senior people they are wearing very
0 badly
0 okay because i think that&;s all people
0 don&;t think about the the bottom down
0 shots or
0 they don&;t have the basic knowledge
0 about this western clothes yeah yeah and
0 also always the so
0 the introduction of the people
0 their their buyers or their sellers
0 of course they say that so you should
0 buy this because this is good and this
0 is trend or something like this even now
0 always of course so they are doing
0 the
0 not propaganda but it&;s a good
0 information and also the
0 but that is the reason why they are
0 doing this because they want to sell the
0 products yeah
0 but culturally like in terms of like a
0 business not a business culture maybe
0 like a business model japan got really
0 good at that as in japan got really good
0 at
0 instructing consumers how to wear
0 something and then because you know how
0 to wear it you should buy it now
0 you know that&;s a very japanese thing to
0 me yeah yeah i think because that&;s all
0 japanese
0 like the department store
0 they really care about the customers
0 what they really want
0 then customers are like accord and they
0 can say anything and they can ask
0 anything then so this kind of the
0 business systems i think it&;s quite
0 the consumer for injury
0 yeah definitely definitely
0 what is that term for
0 when a department store
0 like you&;re a vip customer at the
0 department store and the demand store
0 will bring the clothes to your house oh
0 yeah what what&;s the name of that guy
0 yeah yeah yeah yeah so gasho has a
0 special power
0 for
0 the consumption in japan okay yeah
0 because a lot of department stores
0 literally like that&;s a massive chunk of
0 their business right yeah and they turn
0 up with just like a truck of clothes
0 that they think you might want and
0 because you&;re a vip you can just enjoy
0 it in the comfort of your living room
0 and you pick what you want and then they
0 sell that to you and they take the rest
0 away right yeah yeah and also so some
0 people
0 so japanese paper mentality are kind of
0 the loyality so if they really like the
0 self-sales clock and they said so if you
0 say good okay i will going to get it i
0 will buy it
0 yeah like there&;s a lot of trust yeah
0 sales associates that kind of
0 relationship is
0 the good way for many years but now is
0 that so different generation came
0 then maybe so we have to think about the
0 how we could change those business
0 systems hmm
0 interesting
0 i would love to do a separate video on
0 that someday and to get some of our
0 friends at say like isetan or something
0 oh yeah to talk about it because i think
0 that style of doing business is super
0 interesting
0 but anyway um let me just keep going so
0 after this book what came next
0 then
0 after that so this is my
0 another challenge is
0 so many people are asking me the why you
0 want so why you didn&;t publish your book
0 in english
0 but then
0 of course i&;m a japanese then this
0 publisher is japanese then
0 i
0 would like to publish in bilingual
0 versions
0 but this is a surprising
0 a board that japanese and
0 english yeah i remember when was it this
0 was 2011 or 12 something like that oh no
0 no much was it later later yeah so 2012
0 is like this okay yeah
0 but this is huge challenge and also it&;s
0 very difficult to because there&;s so the
0 layout
0 i have to
0 delete or so i have to adjust the
0 layout so japanese and english sports
0 it&;s very difficult to draw
0 you know another reason i&;m really glad
0 you wrote these books is because it&;s a
0 very interesting record
0 you know like this was
0 kind of like a really golden moment for
0 taylor&;s and i think right now
0 especially in the last two years let&;s
0 be honest like tailors have not had an
0 easy time like not as many people are
0 going to tailors to make clothing and
0 this was a really nice record of them
0 at a very perfect moment in their in
0 their business careers uh yes and so
0 this book is all about the it&;s called
0 the bespoke style but it&;s about the
0 british craftsmanship
0 then i&;d like to
0 so this sabiro is
0 i explained the so what is having low
0 what is the history
0 at the beginning then this is
0 i&;d like to explain about the brief
0 history of menswear
0 for this
0 then after that&;s the
0 of course if you say the main square and
0 the tailoring and the craftsmanship that
0 is
0 related to and influenced by strongly by
0 the military uniforms of course i put
0 some military uniforms tips
0 and of course shoes they must have
0 then
0 so this book has the
0 not only for taylor&;s and also the
0 bespoke when i move this glass it&;s
0 making me super nervous yeah yeah sorry
0 i don&;t want to spill red wine all over
0 your living room
0 i did so many times
0 wow this book is great though i love
0 that you got a lot of the
0 bespoke shoemakers in there too yeah
0 yeah
0 fabulous yeah this book should make us
0 uh
0 so this is another issue of the kind of
0 ancient business
0 and
0 then
0 so some bespoke shoes are almost how do
0 you believe this
0 the maiden also made by hans
0 from scratch
0 it&;s a wonderful craft yeah and japan
0 now is such a beautiful tradition for
0 handmade shoes i think so the mentality
0 wise i think so japanese people are
0 quite good at making shoes
0 underwater definitely definitely
0 no why do you think that is
0 ah
0 i
0 think
0 so japanese people basically if you say
0 the classman they don&;t care about the
0 how much effort you have to
0 so that is a job you choose that is a
0 mentality then they are quite pleased to
0 they dedicated for their own life to
0 make the soil
0 the best
0 products
0 as much as possible
0 i think
0 but you know so the making bespoke shoes
0 is very hard and you need to train
0 so many hours
0 and also that you need to have a certain
0 talent
0 if you&;d like to make a beautiful
0 bespoke shoes yeah absolutely absolutely
0 okay and then
0 this kind of was the end of your of your
0 uk arc uh yeah you moved on to an
0 italian arc after yeah yeah
0 so what came next after this ah then
0 i thought i never thought i could make
0 the so italian tailoring book because
0 you know so there are two big streams
0 one is a british sterling and
0 so another one is italian tailoring but
0 as you said as a classical italy there
0 were those kind of big streams
0 i
0 don&;t think that i could get into
0 so because of the british motor industry
0 or i have some many good friends i could
0 get so they introduced me to get into
0 the society and then the bespoke shoes
0 and so on so on but i don&;t think
0 i could get into but one day there&;s a
0 vital valve canonical came to me and
0 they said
0 so they are quite concerned about the
0 the great moisture the average age is
0 the
0 over 70s
0 and also the so every year they are
0 disappearing
0 and they offered me to make the book
0 like the sabiru but the sartoria italian
0 barger
0 i love this book by the way
0 i read this like cover to cover i think
0 it&;s amazing thank you because
0 what was really amazing about this book
0 is that you managed to make every
0 like you managed to make every tailor
0 distinct
0 yes i think a lesser journalist would
0 really have struggled to make that many
0 different tailors not all kind of like
0 mush into one right because they all
0 have really beautiful interesting and
0 distinct stories so i absolutely loved
0 it yes how many taylors did you visit to
0 to write at sartoria italiana 27 wow
0 okay
0 and you did this yourself basically too
0 yes of course
0 so it was an incredible journey from the
0 train
0 then
0 like so palemo from north south
0 now
0 but for example i expected the so
0 parallel music is similar to the
0 neighbors because of the geographically
0 reason
0 but once i went there so totally
0 different
0 the palermo was
0 some point it&;s quite influenced by the
0 british sharing than the napoli you know
0 the total girlfriend and also napoli has
0 the 14 terrorists
0 and branson
0 i
0 would like to described as the
0 the cultural aspects because of the so
0 this
0 so no one ever
0 has
0 to visit
0 even so as you said even it&;s a quite
0 small terror in the small village
0 then
0 the some tailors are incredibly good
0 but they don&;t want to expand at all
0 um i was so shocked to see that that&;s
0 all
0 they are just two people and they said
0 so the taylor is not so good
0 joe for
0 leaving the money then maybe so he would
0 like to
0 finish or something like this yeah but
0 at the same time
0 the
0 quite famous taylor&;s
0 very top of the world
0 like the colosseum liberal
0 and then they saw antonio panico and
0 then
0 yeah
0 yes yeah
0 and then historical issues
0 then lubinerci and antonio panico and
0 then
0 visiting the supporting taylors in
0 neighbors
0 is very important for me and important
0 for the book yeah
0 um
0 can you
0 briefly this might be a very difficult
0 question can you briefly describe the
0 differences
0 in the different parts of italy when it
0 comes to tailoring
0 basically
0 now is there so many tailors
0 so basically
0 in southern there isn&;t any proper
0 industry for making living
0 for
0 some people
0 then there are many tailoring industries
0 and tailors in naples exists
0 then so they are going back to the italy
0 that is so since maybe the 1950s or even
0 much
0 even longer
0 [Music]
0 so some southern terrors are going to
0 nurse to
0 making living so like lebilano then now
0 it&;s very difficult to
0 see the difference between the northern
0 and south but basically
0 the sonos is so you know so italy is the
0 great
0 quite diverse of the countries
0 this is not the one country culture like
0 england yeah then
0 so basically they are different people
0 different forms
0 not italian
0 yeah it wasn&;t that long ago when it was
0 a bunch of little warring states yes yes
0 that all just happened to glob together
0 yeah yeah yeah
0 that is just just a 100
0 or something like
0 so years ago then the news is quite
0 similar to the
0 the mentality and aesthetic is quite
0 similar to
0 maybe french
0 and also british
0 then
0 it&;s quite structured
0 then the florence has the
0 this is the another different part of
0 country but
0 still they&;re in
0 in the middle of the sonos and in the
0 middle then they
0 they much more and also they feel like
0 because
0 of the
0 so they have the quite long history of
0 fighting yeah then so their aesthetic is
0 quite masculine so they&;re fighters also
0 constantino yeah
0 so not feminine
0 like so in naples
0 they have their so
0 loyal and also
0 quite rich country used to be
0 then
0 they have the many alex chocolate so
0 they have the very flourish
0 culture
0 and also because of the weather so they
0 always that they prefer the light weight
0 yeah
0 and so the temperature and the mentality
0 so totally different yeah
0 and that&;s one of the things i really
0 love about italy and tailoring in italy
0 is that it&;s always
0 very expressive
0 of
0 the place that it comes from you know
0 like you can kind of tell when a suit is
0 from milan and kind of tell when a suit
0 is from somewhere in the south naples or
0 sicily whatever too and even florence
0 like as this thing that&;s in between
0 north and south definitely has its own
0 look too yeah yeah then the room is like
0 quite so long
0 the style in rome is very similar to
0 paris
0 i think
0 because of the clientele are the similar
0 to paris
0 and also
0 they are strongly
0 connected to the politics then they
0 also they really like the structured
0 type of
0 garments
0 okay
0 do you what&;s your next book after this
0 is there a next book after this
0 um
0 so this is my question about you so do
0 you think so that asia will be
0 the next leader of menswear for the
0 future
0 i think it depends on what what sort of
0 menswear you&;re talking about um
0 [Music]
0 yeah i think there&;s a chance for sure i
0 think actually
0 china is is a big question mark right
0 like i think people still look at china
0 as like
0 as not a place that has an aesthetic
0 that you want to look up to but i think
0 there will come a point where like young
0 chinese people evolve into actually very
0 talented designers
0 and then they&;ll be able to contribute
0 to the world of style in their own way
0 too you know and i mean we&;ve already
0 seen that with japan right like japan
0 has people like ray kawakubo yoji
0 yamamoto
0 like so many amazing designers came out
0 of japan in the last 50 years and it&;s i
0 think it&;d be unfair to say that oh that
0 might not that might never happen for
0 china either you know and also actually
0 to be fair korea also some incredible
0 terrorists come out of korea some
0 incredible brands coming out of korea
0 um so you know like i think that the
0 world will become the world of style
0 will become more diverse and i think
0 that&;s great
0 i think actually if there was um a book
0 i would be very curious about uh
0 it would be more
0 and maybe this is not such a good
0 general appeal book but
0 i am fascinated by how
0 japan basically
0 kept
0 the classical classical italian style
0 going for so long yeah you know there
0 was just like it was like this perfect
0 storm of a bunch of different factors
0 right like people were interested in
0 italy
0 just about had enough money to do it
0 there was enough brands and department
0 stores and whatnot that were willing to
0 push along and it kind of became like
0 the standard and i think if you were to
0 for instance go back to when i was
0 starting to get more into menswear maybe
0 like 15 20 years ago
0 like
0 man if you wanted to see really good
0 classical italian style you were
0 actually better off looking at japanese
0 magazines looking at japanese examples
0 because it was always so smartly put
0 together and so smartly presented you
0 know it was always very understandable
0 and
0 this is like i was saying before
0 something that japanese fashion brands
0 japanese fashion media do really well
0 yeah like they really know how to
0 present something that&;s
0 easy to understand and easy to buy into
0 yeah as well
0 like
0 for me even though i grew up in the uk i
0 wasn&;t i&;d never visited italy when i
0 was young and italy was
0 actually in many ways more foreign to me
0 than japan was despite it being much
0 closer to me
0 so i think there&;s an interesting kind
0 of fashion history record to be written
0 to fill in that gap because i think that
0 gap is super interesting yeah and plus a
0 lot of those guys are still around like
0 i would say people like nakamura-san for
0 instance right he definitely is one of
0 the the founders of like classical
0 italian style in japan
0 i think the as a icon
0 or maybe some kind of trend leaders
0 japanese are quite sensitive about the
0 salt land and what&;s next and what&;s
0 next i think that is a quite good
0 matching of the instagram
0 so
0 putting the information on sms is the
0 quite good way for the customers yeah so
0 what is the
0 what is the trend of the time and what&;s
0 next
0 but at the same time for
0 if you are going i think that&;s all the
0 both ways is a good way so people want
0 to buy it but at the same time so just
0 going to the trend and trend and trend
0 and people
0 are tired of this
0 yeah
0 yeah definitely i think that&;s kind of
0 um
0 where the world is is moving towards as
0 well right like yeah i think
0 even though fast fashion is because fast
0 fashion is basically the the final step
0 yeah of that whole system right like you
0 can&;t really get any faster than fast
0 fashion the whole point of fast fashion
0 is that things change super fast and
0 you&;ve always got something new to buy
0 but i think that
0 even if not even the financial tide
0 hasn&;t turned
0 the popular tide i think is starting to
0 turn right like people definitely don&;t
0 brag about buying something from h m
0 because they also don&;t want to be
0 associated with fast fashion whereas
0 before they were like whatever i don&;t
0 mind being associated with it you know
0 so we&;ll see we&;ll see what comes next
0 right yeah yeah i think i expect the
0 even not only men i think the women
0 so they realized
0 so they need to have the tailored
0 garments so proprietary garments in
0 their wardrobes for work
0 so they need to build up the water
0 so in japan
0 so some people have the quite a big
0 knowledge about their clothes but some
0 people don&;t think about this so how to
0 build up the water rules
0 if you know more and you need less
0 yeah
0 i mean i i love and this is the approach
0 that we try to take at the army is that
0 we like
0 the idea of building a wardrobe for
0 somebody you know like it&;s fine to sell
0 somebody a single garment but what&;s
0 more interesting is like really helping
0 them figure out what does their wardrobe
0 need to look like to like serve all
0 their needs and to
0 to reflect who they are and also to to
0 help them present themselves
0 professionally when they need to you
0 know yeah and also they have some
0 in japan so black tie also those kind of
0 protocol is not so common
0 if you have reception yeah and some
0 people is wearing this open black tie
0 and some people experience jacket and
0 jeans and so on so on so yeah yeah yeah
0 if you&;re wearing
0 so japanese said the tuxedo that is a
0 dinner suit
0 then
0 normally they are wearing
0 maybe for the wedding but it doesn&;t
0 mean the black tie then usually they are
0 wearing that&;s a black suit then
0 white thai for the wedding
0 actually that that&;s a fun thing i dig
0 into for a second
0 like
0 is it a japanese thing
0 when i see
0 guys in silver tuxedos
0 uh yes very much so and also the blue or
0 yeah the colored tuxedo where the hell
0 did this come from
0 i think all japanese
0 but basically i mean
0 for the menswear
0 and even so closing always leading the
0 designers
0 then designers imagination creative
0 doesn&;t match for the men&;s values
0 of course
0 [Music]
0 so if you have the basic knowledge then
0 you said so
0 i shouldn&;t wear this for my wedding but
0 if
0 of course
0 if there&;s a wedding planner or those
0 kind of people they don&;t have enough
0 knowledge about the basic
0 menswear or the basic formal wear now if
0 professional says the
0 so
0 maybe that in summer
0 you should wear the blue type of the
0 tuxedo is nice than they are wearing in
0 hawaii
0 but i
0 because i don&;t mind like i don&;t even
0 mind a blue tuxedo it was like a
0 springtime wedding and the environment
0 was appropriate i can live with that
0 but it&;s like when it goes into like
0 silver and really really shiny you know
0 yes and then with like that very puffy
0 kind of yes cravat yeah i&;m like wow
0 that&;s yes that&;s wow
0 when do you think that
0 started i think for many years many
0 years huh it&;s not
0 very
0 special things to say yeah
0 so this is the reason i say so
0 nowadays i think that not only for the
0 japanese society so if you go abroad you
0 need the proper knowledge about
0 the
0 so menswear bathroom then
0 you don&;t have to feel
0 terrified
0 and also the so
0 if you have to choose
0 the
0 the occasion
0 so if you address up
0 that is the better situation than the
0 only one you are that dress down
0 yeah i think so
0 yeah what&;s that phrase it&;s better to
0 be breath better to be dressed up than
0 dressed down yes
0 very true
0 okay
0 yes we should wrap up
0 yeah is there anything else you&;d like
0 to talk about uh finish up um i think
0 that&;s so you uh
0 so you have the responsibility for
0 teaching those kind of mental water love
0 issues and the people quite expect to do
0 so
0 yeah we try you know like we try to give
0 our view
0 and hopefully we try to give rules that
0 are reasonable and people can understand
0 so you have the both type of views so
0 you are english and that&;s the same
0 thing that you&;re asian then your family
0 or with the japanese culture then
0 so
0 you can give the best advice for anyone
0 we&;re the best but we try we try
0 i i think that especially right now um
0 where there&;s a lot of different
0 subcultures there&;s a lot of different
0 kind of aesthetics going on yes yes it
0 is healthy to
0 not
0 i mean this is this is bad because we
0 just said this whole thing about about
0 shiny wedding suits which i&;m not a fan
0 of but i do think at the end of the day
0 like people should try to enjoy what
0 they wear because i think that&;s really
0 really important because i think what&;s
0 even more unhealthy is when you
0 really dislike what you wear you know
0 and sometimes like knowing the rules and
0 knowing why it&;s good to wear certain
0 things
0 actually makes you appreciate it more
0 yeah it makes it more enjoyable to wear
0 you know and i mean so if you have to
0 wear the tailored garments that is the
0 most of things for work or for social
0 issues
0 then if you have enough knowledge of
0 course that you can
0 have them more casual down or you can
0 break
0 by your own way but unless you know
0 enough knowledge you cannot do this
0 you cannot enjoy it&;s
0 true okay well you schmidt thank you for
0 your time this evening yes thank you
0 very much i really enjoyed
0 as always
0 and thank you very much for everyone to
0 watch this
0 yeah
0 all right until the next episode thanks
0 for watching yeah thank you very much
0 [Music]
.